LEJOG blog

Day 99 of the End to End felt like the hottest yet. It might have been but we’ve not kept a record. When walking like this each hot day seems to be the hottest, each uphill climb seems to be the steepest. Today was both hot and steep.
Knowing this was likely, we set off early. The uphill path from the A82 was through woodland which helped quite a bit. It was another day of humongous fungi which is always fun.

At the top of the the main climb an information board told the story of the Newfies, those lumberjacks from Canada who came to work this area during WW2.
The forestry track continued across more open country, which was hotter, and we reached the Abriachan car park at about midday.
After a picnic lunch there I set off again for the last section through a small piece of younger woodland. All along the path hand painted signs announced the proximity of a cafe and sure enough there was one. The Abriachan Eco-cafe was one of those one off places you come across on LEJOG. It served excellent cake and cold drinks and the welcome was top rate. We had our photo taken, we felt like celebrities!

Then there was just a couple of miles to go to the end of the day’s walk on rather hot road with wonderful views of the mountains.

From Psalm 118

When the going was hard, I cried out to God, who brought me into a spacious place.

The landscape keeps on changing. The sheltering trees give way to heather moorand. Loch Ness glitters in the sunlight. Small streams jump down the rocks. The trees come back. It is wonderful.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end. 

JAL 25.07.2019
Day 99 of the End to End, from A82 near Drumnadrochit to Wester Altourie.

Day 98 of the End to End was into monster territory. It started in Bunloit above Loch Ness and continued in what was at times like a sauna: very hot and humid. Even on this short mostly downhill section there were some distractions: more large fungi by the Way and Rocky Road from Sue’s Cake Shed.

At the gate (this gate featured in a video on Bob’s walk), I turned left onto a path through woodland down to Lewiston. Bob met me and we had some Rocky Road for 11s at the picnic tables by the bridge. I then walked onto the village of Drumnadrochit.

As we noted on a previous visits it’s a thriving place thanks to the various sightings of the famed Loch Ness Monster and its associated celebrity industry. Most of the businesses on the main street claim a monster relationship of some kind.

We tried the fish and chips and found them very good (actually Bob had the haggis). To my mind, fish and chips is the ideal End to End food. It’s British, you can get it almost anywhere and the calories in a portion will get you from one end of the day to the next.
It was enough to get me to the end of what was a downhill and flat stage, but I didn’t win any prizes for it. I stopped at the point where the Great Glen Way leaves the A82 opposite the Loch Ness RNLI Station, leaving the ascent for tomorrow.
The sign on leaving Drumnadrochit announces that it is 14 miles to Inverness.

From John’s Gospel

Jesus said ‘I am the gate for the sheep’.

The Way so far has had plenty of gates, some open, some closed, some easier to open or close than others. What is the purpose of a gate, other than to go through it? If Jesus is the gate then it’s not for us to take up gatekeeping.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 24.07.2019
Day 98 of the End to End from Bunloit to just past Drumnadrochit

Day 97 of the End to End was from Invermoriston to the Pottery at Bunloit.
It was a hot day, often humid and there was quite a lot of steep uphill climbs to contend with.
After the first set of zigzags the Great
Glen Way split between the Upper and Lower routes. Bob came with me and we took the lower route to the Stone Cave. This ideal spot for hermits holds great affection for us. Bob has been here 3 times, Hannah twice and now me once.

Bob turned back to Invermoriston at this point and I went onto Altsigh. Some more zigzags after that and I met Bob again coming towards me. We had a picnic on a bench looking out over Loch Ness.
The day was full of wonderful views and super wildlife. Butterflies tumbled over and over as the wind tugged me back and forth on the path that like a brown snake slithered up the hill between the whispering trees.
It was definitely the day for speckled wood butterflies: I saw at least 60. I also saw 10 large dragonflies and 4 pearl bordered fritillary. Another interesting sight was several large wood ant nests with very busy occupants.

The woodland was also rich in large fungi especially an orange variety identified for me as Orange Birch Bolete by @wildindevon. It seems you can eat these but we didn’t.

We were soon on our way out of the woods to the car park at Bunloit, not far from the Pottery and tearoom. There, an excellent whisky fruit cake restored us.

From Jeremiah 18

God said “Go down to the potter’s house, and there I will give you my message.” So I went down to the potter’s house.

A lot of images from the Bible are taken from daily life. In this one Jeremiah sees the Potter reshape the wonky clay and it reminds him that God can reshape us, but only if we are willing.
A walk is full of promising images: fungi spring up everywhere and ants scurry about. It depends on how we read the world around us and our relationship with it.

In your hands Creative Potter, reshape us and fit us for your world to thrive alongside the fungi and the ants.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 23.07.2019
Day 97 of the End to End, Invermoriston to Bunloit.

An amber weather warning for this part of Scotland on Monday left us with decisions to make. The best idea was to combine two short days into one long day today and avoid walking in the expected bad weather tomorrow.
Therefore, Day 96 of the End to End began at Bridge of Oich with the 12 mile goal of Invermoriston in mind if all went well.
The first part of the walk was along the Caledonian Canal, a smooth level path. It was a quiet Sunday morning stroll. Bob met me and we got into Fort Augustus in time for 11s when the fish and chip shop opened.

The next part was going to be more difficult not least for the steep ascent from the Village to the main path. The forestry track is currently being used for laying water pipes so it was good we were walking on a Sunday when that wasn’t happening.

It was a very green route with speckled wood butterflies the most common and some very large fungi as well.
We took a path down from the track before Invermoriston to avoid a long detour round to the village. It involved a couple of hundred metres on the road, but the footpath soon came along and we strolled into Invermoriston. We admired Telford’s bridge over the River Morriston. The walk ended in the centre of the village by St Columba’s well.

From St Columba’s Prayer

Be a bright flame before me, O God
a guiding star above me.
Be a smooth path below me,
a kindly shepherd behind me
today, tonight, and for ever.

JAL 21.07.2019
Day 96 of the End to End, Bridge of Oich to Invermoriston via Fort Augustus.

Day 95 of the End to End, sponsored by Christine and Richard of the Lay Community of St Benedict, was dry. After the very wet day yesterday, that was very welcome.
We went to the Well of the Seven Heads for breakfast. This rather gruesome title refers to a monument that remembers a blood feud of the MacDonalds, the story being engraved in stone. It stands over a well that runs into Loch Lochy. The breakfast at the cafe opposite the well was excellent, as were the cakes and sandwiches we got for later.
Bob dropped me off at Laggan Locks for the beginning of the walk. The clouds had cleared and we had good views all day. The Laggan Locks are the highest on the Caledonian Canal and this relatively short section of canal leads into Loch Oich.
The walk along Loch Oich involved a disused railway line so it was level and pretty straight making it an easy walk. Attempts are being made to rebuild Invergarry Station and it even has a very small engine.

After yesterday’s rain all the little streams were full and the foliage green and abundant. Bob walked towards me and we met about half way along that section. There was one tunnel.

We soon arrived at The Bridge of Oich, which has in fact several bridges. One is a swing bridge over the canal. Another is a road bridge for the A82. The third is a suspension bridge which was built after some severe floods in 1849. It is now in the care of Historic Scotland. Only 50 people are allowed to use it at once.
After a picnic by the bridges we took a brief drive to Fort Augustus for a bit of ice cream and shopping as it was a lovely afternoon.

From Psalm 139

You see me, whether I am working or resting and you know everything I do.
Even before I speak, you already know what I will say.

It has been a tiring section of the walk since the last rest day on 7th July. Having done 3 ways: the Three Lochs Way, the West Highland Way and now 3 days of the Great Glen Way, and passing 900 miles, we are going to have another rest day tomorrow. It is also our 28th Wedding anniversary

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 19.07.2019
Day 95 of the End to End, Laggan Locks to Bridge of Oich.

Day 94 of the End to End was a wet one. It started wet, it ended wet and essentially it was wet all the way through. Now and then a tantalising glimpse of the sun would last a few minutes but it was mostly wet.
Before started walking we stopped at the Commando Memorial. It’s an evocative setting in the Lochaber hills where the Commandos trained for their part in D Day and other missions in WW2. I was to see evidence of this connection throughout the day’s walk. It was also the longest dry moment of the day.

The walk started near Rubha allt a’ Bhradain on Loch Lochy, a grey strip of water on the Great Glen Way. The first couple of miles was on the road to Clunes. Fairly soon there was a panel about the WW2 Landing Assault Craft used by the Commandos in training that has been preserved there. This stretch of Loch Lochy was used for rehearsing beach landings and attacks in advance of D Day in 1944.
The route from Clunes along the lochside was also used for training exercises, the timings for which were quite a lot quicker than mine today. Their target was 7 miles in 70 minutes whilst mine was to make it by mid afternoon.
The rain came and went and came again in large splodges all along the 7 miles stretch. Rain fed streams tumbled down the gullies and vegetation bloomed everywhere.
Bob met me about halfway. Both already wet through we ate a quick sandwich and pressed on to the end stopping only to use the Compost Toilets provided beside the path.
We crossed over Laggan Locks and enjoyed a welcome hot sandwich and drink at the somewhat open-air cafe on the side of Loch Lochy. It was a change to see the rain clouds rolling down the Loch and not for once be drenched by them.

Yesterday, Loch Lochy was in the news for an amazing rainbow

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-49030378#

From Genesis 9

God said, “This is the sign of the covenant I am making between me and you and every living creature with you, a covenant for all generations to come: I have put my rainbow in the clouds, and it will be the sign of the covenant between me and the earth.”

There’s nothing quite like a rainbow. Wonder at the Laws of Physics, at the diversity of humanity, at the way in which we are bound together in a covenant relationship.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 18.07.2019
Day 94 of the End to End from Rubha allt a’ Bhradain to Laggan Locks.

Day 93 of the End to End started early at Roy Bridge station as Hannah was catching the 08.04 train south. All three of us have now arrived or departed from Roy Bridge station whilst taking part in an End to End, which is pretty good for a small request stop in the Highlands.
The actual walking began at Lochyside on the Great Glen Way. It was a grey start and the weather got heavier but the full on rain didn’t really start until we’d stopped walking.
I got a message from Bob to tell me the Jacobite steam train was due at Banavie about 10.15am. With any luck so was I. Banavie is a very small station and the engine has to go through it very slowly so it was a good spot for a photo.

After the steam had cleared I crossed the road to Neptune’s Staircase at the start of the Caledonian Canal. This is the longest Staircase Lock in Britain. Built between 1803 and 1822 by Thomas Telford there are 8 individual locks in the staircase. Near the bottom one small canalside building is a cafe. I called in and received a free packet of biscuits to see me on my way to Gairlochy.
The path was flat and broad and very easy after the West Highland Way. I was well supplied with wild flowers to admire, including some lovely butterfly orchids.
Bob met me for lunch and we had a picnic on a log before continuing to Gairlochy. We passed the Moy Bridge, the only hand operated swing bridge on this section of the canal.
At Gairlochy I had a rest in the car for half an hour before beginning the final section for the day. It was a lovely walk along the side of Loch Lochy through mixed woodland. These trees make up part of the temperate rain forest of the West Highlands and it was lovely to see them at their wet and misty best with rain drops dripping from every branch and low cloud shrouding the hills.

From Psalm 68
Holy One, you made abundant rain fall and restored your worn-out land.

Once again I am thankful for rain after several very hot days walking on the West Highland Way. The Great Glen path is mostly flatter. The hills bear a blanket of grey cloud today and the forest is wonderfully green.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end

JAL 17.07.2019
Day 93 of the End to End, Lochyside to Rubha allt a’ Bhradain on Loch Lochy.

Day 92 of the End to End was my last day on the West Highland Way. It has been a real roller-coaster of emotions and a switchback of a route. Today it began with cloud shrouding the tops of the mountains which yesterday were clear.
I began at that shelter at Blar a Chaorainn, which is pretty near the middle of nowhere. The track winds up and down through woodland that was cut down sometime in the recent past. Sheep wander about and plants grow among the stumps and abandoned branches and unwanted trunks. It’s a weird landscape and didn’t receive much positive feedback from those walkers who commented on it. Each stump bears its own decorations or heather, moss and lichen except for those that are bare enough to sit on.

There were quite a few miles of this and a cheese sandwich to keep me going. The views of Ben Nevis got clearer as the clouds lifted so eventually I could see the path up the mountain from the other side of the valley.
I emerged onto a forestry track near the remains of an Iron Age hillfort. Then it was downhill from there. Bob met me near the road and we dropped into the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre for an ice cream. The centre is well placed for would be Ben Nevis walkers and has plenty of pertinent information. The 10 mile return route looked a bit too much for us today. I think I’d also need to improve my ant impersonation abilities for the very steep bits.

We made our way back towards Fort William but before getting to the town we took a small footbridge across the river Nevis and wound our way round to pick up the Great Glen Way without too much difficulty, going past the railway sidings. We crossed the Soldiers Bridge to end the day at Lochyside.
I had now swapped one way for another: from the West Highland Way to the Great Glen Way. The former was probably the most demanding route so far on the End to End. I was looking for the Great Glen Way to be a little less so.

From Psalm 139

If I flew away beyond the east or lived in the farthest place in the west, you would be there to lead me and help me.

East or West, God knows these routes better than we ever shall. Even our own capabilities are better known by God than we are often able to assess ourselves.
I saw a stone on which one word had been painted. The word was ‘soar’. Let’s try it.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 16.0.2019
Day 92 of the End to End from Blar a Chaorainn to Lochyside.

Day 91 of the End to End began at Kinlochleven. We left Tyndrum about 10am, each for their own adventures. Hannah took the train from Upper Tyndrum to Corrour to spend a large part of the day there and then get the next train to Fort William. This is because our very small car was too full up to take all three of us and the luggage.
Bob took me to Kinlochleven. It was already quite hot. The route started up hill steeply through some woodland. It was beautiful. There’s some work on the path to make a small community hydroelectric scheme.
The path came to the Old Military Road and then went along that for the rest of the day. These military roads were built in Scotland in the 18th century in response to the Jacobite risings. This one goes through a valley called Lairigmor, which means The Big Pass. It is said to have been the route taken from Fort William by the MacGregors escaping the Campbells in 1645.
It was very dramatic with steep high mountains with green and grey slopes on each side. I lost count of the number of streams I had to cross or the number of orchids alongside the track.
It was a hot day so rest and water stops were essential. I had lunch on a handy rock of which there were several available. Once the Lairigmor had been negotiated, it was more of less downhill, through a section of felled pines, to the small information shelter at Blar a Chaorainn that I remembered from Hannah’s walk. However, as she reminded me later, that had been in the rain.
At Fort William ice cream was eaten. Hannah arrived on one train, and Bob left on another. Hannah and I drove to the campsite at Roy Bridge, another we had used on her End to End. Bob arrived on the next train. Everyone had had an adventure of sorts.

From Psalm 23

Even though I walk through Death’s valley, I am not afraid, for you are there for me.

Waves of anxiety come and go with me, mostly due to over thinking about others.
There is so much of life we cannot control, of course. Jesus doesn’t avoid Death’s valley, for himself or us. He is familiar with the landscape. He’s ready to walk through it again.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 15.07.2019
Day 91 of the End to End from Kinlochleven to Blar a Chaorainn on the WHW.

Day 90 of the End to End, marks the beginning of the last month the walk. Today I walked to Kinlochleven via the Devil’s Staircase.
Folks do wonder about this section of the West Highland Way and we’ve been asked about it by other walkers. I wonder why there are so many satanic landmarks in Britain. The Devil’s Beeftub in the Southern Uplands; the Devil’s Elbow in Derbyshire and now the Devil’s Staircase. Maybe you can think of some other devilish locations?
I started not far from Kingshouse and the first section of the path to Altnafeadh, that I’d considered walking last night, didn’t present any difficulties. It did offer some super views of Buachaille Etive Mor, the Great Herdsman of Glencoe.
Bob and Hannah were at Altnafeadh, which is clearly a busy spot on a summer morning, to fill my water bottles and make sure I had everything I needed for the big climb.
The path began to curve steeply upwards and I could see my ant like companions zigzagging backwards and forwards higher up the climb. It’s the sort of walk where you get to recognise each other, passing individuals and groups on the ascent as we rest and walk, walk and rest, all the way up.
Rather than a Devil’s Staircase, it had me in mind of Jacob’s dream of a ladder stretching between earth and heaven, with Angels going up and down.
At the top of the pass I nearly took the wrong path up higher, but realised my error and chose the descending path. It had taken me about an hour and a half to the top, with three rests. Pretty good on a hot morning.
The descent to the Kinlochleven side is longer than the ascent, and Bob tells me is probably the longest descent of the whole End to End. The path was better, possibly recently overhauled, and the fords were easily negotiated.
I was entertained by Caw and Grunt, two playful aerobatic ravens who were wheeling around in the blue sky.
I had a conversation with a French couple I met on the way down and then ate my lunch sitting on a rock by the path. After 5 miles or so, Bob met me on the path up from the village. There were some steep patches on the descent but we made it to the village without incident where Hannah was waiting. We had ice cream in the National Ice Climbing Centre, but trying that out is an adventure that will have to wait for another day.

From Genesis

In his dream of a ladder stretching between heaven and earth, Jacob saw Angels going up and down.

God of mountain and sky, maker of heaven and earth,
We dream of many things: of justice and peace in the world and courage to play our part in it.
We are thankful for all those who have accompanied these steps, the angels from many nations, going up and down.
As we look up to where ravens fly, lift our hearts for the next part of the journey.

At day’s end, grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 14.07.2019
Day 90 of the End to End from near Kingshouse to Kinlochleven.