LEJOG blog

Day 89 of the End to End was across Rannoch Moor, and Hannah, who had walked it in 2012, came with me.
Bob and Hannah have always spoken warmly of Rannoch Moor. It’s a vast green place and I was looking forward to the walk.
Being a summer Saturday, there were quite a few other walkers of all ages. The path is a wide track and mostly gentle. It was lined with interesting plants and flowers. Some we had seen before but overall the change in scenery means a change in flora. Some heather is just coming into flower. Small orchids and other marsh loving plants populate the boggy patches. There were quite a few butterflies and dragonflies busy on such a sunny day.
There are few specific landmarks but there is amazing scenery. The odd bridge or rock presented a resting point. We met Bob just over half way and had our picnic lunch by a rock.
We were soon on the way down to Kingshouse Hotel, which has been almost completely rebuilt since we were last here. At one point I wondered about walking on a further three miles but that was an idea too far. I did nearly a mile extra to the point the path took up again but left it at that for today.
We had a meal at the Hotel and watched the deer through the large windows, before heading back to our campsite at Tyndrum. What a distance we’d covered in the last few days. There’s now less than a month to cover 270 miles.

From Psalm 139

You have examined me thoroughly: you know me through and through.

In this vast landscape a human being seems very small. Ahead on the path other walkers seem like ants toiling up the incline. As the path plays out, it is amazing to think we are completely known by God.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 13.07.2019
Day 89 of the End to End, Victoria Bridge to Kingshouse on the West Highland Way.

Day 88 of the End to End began from County March Bridge. It was sponsored by the Coll Family who had previously walked this section with Hannah in 2012. The news of the morning was that the Caledonian Sleeper from London to the West Highlands was running several hours late.
The route is a fairly broad even track most of the way. Ben Dorian guards the first part and as I walked towards it today the clouds gradually lifted off. The most challenging section of the route was a downhill section going under the railway. Recent rain had made this bit into a stream and it was rather slippery.
The meadows alongside the path were once again full of interesting flowers and insects, including the large gold ringed dragonfly. Female dragonflies lay their eggs in water and some were busy today at that task.
Other walkers and even runners went past me. One couple asked me about the Devil’s Staircase, and later, at Bridge of Orchy station I was able to introduce them to Hannah who, having walked up it herself, was able to answer their questions.
The Caledonian Sleeper eventually past by over two and a half hours late. We three had our picnic lunch on Bridge of Orchy station. It is now a small hostel that we stayed in a few years ago.
I got onto the road at the Bridge of Orchy junction and walked across the eponymous bridge. I had decided to use the road to Inveroran as we’d previously walked the WHW route and knew it included a steep hill. More dragonflies and butterflies accompanied the easy walk that included views of Loch Tulla.
I walked down to the Victoria Bridge car park, which is almost the end from the road, and then we drove back to the Inveroran Hotel for cake. We were not exactly regular customers but we had eaten cake there seven years ago with the Coll Family.

From the Lords prayer

Give us bread for today

We are grateful for the food we have shared today.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end 

JAL 12.07.2019
Day 88 of the End to End from North of Tyndrum to Victoria Bridge car park.

Day 87 of the End to End falls on the feast day of St Benedict, I’m hoping today’s account has a Benedictine flavour. Rain delayed the start of the walk but eventually I started near Ewich at the crossing of the A82. It was wet.
As Lay Benedictines we have a prayer and I’ve based today’s reflection around it.

In response to the call of Christ;
Christ calls us in many ways to be God’s people in the world. Walking the End to End is my latest understanding of Christ’s call to me as I walk and listen. It has been really awesome to walk for 87 days.

I offer myself to Almighty God, By the help of the Holy Spirit,
As I begin this phase of my life, through this walk, I offer myself anew, body, mind and spirit. It’s a blank page in some ways.

With the love of the Lay Community of St Benedict,
I’ve not been a member of the community for very long but I have found them to be very supportive and encouraging. Some are sponsoring the walk.

To live Holy Communion,  Create Holy Space, and Offer Holy Service in ways in which my circumstances allow.
On Day 87 of the End to End, I was in communion with other walkers as I walked from Ewich via Strathfillian. The holy space was bursting with flowers and birds. The rivers were flowing briskly with the recent rain. It was fine to offer people a look at the map I’m carrying or exchange a story of early Celtic Christianity at St Fillian’s chapel.
After an ice cream break at Strathfillian, I walked onto Tyndrum on my own as the clouds began to clear. Hannah had prepared some lunch at the campsite and as the sun came out we ate outside.
Bob and I then walked onto the place the WHW crosses the A82 at the end of the village, where we had some more ice cream, and I went up the track there.
A short time later when he met me at the County March Bridge the sun was fully out and it was a hot afternoon. St Benedict’s Day had proved to be my first two ice creams day in a while.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 11.07.2019 the Feast of St Benedict.
Day 87 of the End to End, Ewich to North of Tyndrum on the A82 at County March Bridge.

Day 86 of the End to End began at Beinglas on the West Highland Way. With a weather forecast of rain I anticipated more of the wet stuff. In the end there was no rain but wet feet from fording lots of streams, undoubtedly the product of the recent wet weather.
Hannah accompanied me on the first part of the route for a short jog (her not me). She then went to Crainlarich with Bob.
The WHW goes through Glen Falloch at this point and there were lovely views of the river in spate, especially the Falls.
The marshy meadows along the Way were beautiful with wild flowers: bog asphodel, small orchids and sundew amongst them.
Bob and Hannah meet me for a lunch stop after quite a long and tiring morning. Reaching it required the fording of a stream and crossing a stile: two challenges in one. It wasn’t the only stream I had to cross. The rain meant that quite a lot of the downhill sections of the path had become streams.
A honesty box for drinks and chocolate was a welcome distraction along the path before the Crainlarich junction. After that the path narrowed and was wet to the end by the A82 at Ewich. It was beautifully green through the woodland stretches, from top to bottom and quite a few golden ringed dragonflies were about.
I crossed under the railway Viaduct and met Hannah and Bob by the road junction. Inspite of low cloud on the hills it hadn’t rained on me today.
We called into the Artisnal Cafe in an old church just up the road for some cake before our journey back to Tyndrum.

From Luke’s Gospel

Jesus said to Zaccheus I’m coming to your house for tea!

A church that serves tea and cake is following in a Jesus tradition, although I’ve yet to see one called Chez Zaccheus.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 10.07.2019
Day 86 of the End to End, Beinglas to Ewich on the West Highland Way.

Day 85 of the End to End sees me join the West Highland Way at Inversnaid. It’s going to be a wet one, but then this part of the West of Scotland does have a high annual rain fall, lots of lochs to fill and temperate rain forest to water.
It’s not my first trek on this part of the WHW. The year after Bob’s End to End we all did some small sections from Balmaha including most of this bit.
This morning I left Tarbert on the Waterbus at 10am for Inversnaid. The other folks on board were mostly from a coach party and the tour guide entertained us as we crossed the Loch with stories of Rob Roy.
At Inversnaid hotel I decided to have some hot chocolate before setting off, which turned out to be a good plan. I knew it was a challenging route but with the rain as well it was twice as demanding. But it was also very beautiful with low clouds decorating the hills and frogs hopping in the puddles at my feet.
Bob set off from Beinglas and we met at the Doune bothy for a snack. It was a meeting point for all nations as many walkers arrived there for a rest and some shelter from the weather. Whilst we sat there we got a surprise phone call from Hannah who was in the process of changing trains and stations at Glasgow.
It was a further two rather wet hours down the WHW to Beinglas where we got some lovely soup in the bar to warm us up.
At Tyndrum our new accommodation is a Posh Pod and very comfy and dry it is too.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.
JAL 09.07.2019
Day 85 of the End to End, Inversnaid to Beinglas on the WHW
(note that reduced signal may limit blog content on WHW)

Day 84 of the End to End followed stage 4 of the Three Lochs Way from Arrochar to Inveruglas. It was not a long walk being about 6 miles and it was a lovely day.
Bob came with me for the first mile through Arrochar village to the start of the path at the head of Loch Long. The path is shared with the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way which comes in from the west.

It winds its way up through woodland and meadows full of flowers and insects to a small rocky pass. Although steep at times there were plenty of places to rest, great views and lots to see. I knew I’d reached the top when the power lines, which follow the same route started to dip downwards.

The downhill path went through more woodland and came out to a small bridge over Inveruglas water. The valley is surrounded by spectacular peaks. It had taken me just under two hours to do the four miles or so.

I met Bob on the hydro road and there was an easy route down to the main road, past the Sloy Power Station, a hydroelectric scheme. There’s a footpath along the main road to the Inveruglas visitors centre, where I signed the book of achievement. It took them a while to find it and mine was the first name in the book.

There were good views over Loch Lomond and the nearby Inveruglas island. A new structure that has won an architectural prize provides an elevated view point. We drove back to Tarbert for some lentil soup.

From Psalm 46

Be still and know that I am God

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end
JAL 08.07.2019
Day 84 of the End to End, Arrochar to Inveruglas

As we have two days in hand on the End to End route, we decided to have a rest day today. It was a bright day and the hills and lochs of this part of Argyll are beautiful at anytime of the year, so it was ideal territory for a break from walking.
Back in 2000, Bob cycled from Sheffield to Iona (Gwen and I arranged a pilgrimage to Iona for people from Shiregreen URC) and on that journey he cycled up the Rest and be Thankful Pass. So that was our first spectacular stop. It was named by the soldiers who made the Military Road here in the 18th century.

We then drove onto Inveraray, a small town on Loch Fyne. It was a lovely morning for an ice cream by the lochside after a walk round the town. There is a 15th century stone cross near the Pier and the ship Vital Spark rests by the Pier. Bob will probably write more about that as he remembered the connection to a TV show.

We then drove a little further towards Loch Awe to Portsonachan, which is a very small place, for a picnic lunch. On the way we found a cake shop in a phone box, which was excellent timing.

It had been a restful adventure.

From Psalm 3

I call out to God, who answers me from the holy mountain.
I lie down and sleep and I wake up again, because God keeps me going.

Rest is essential.
We are thankful for it.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 07.07.2019
A rest day on the End to End between Arrochar, Inveraray and Portsonachan via the Rest and be Thankful Pass.

Day 83 of the End to End from Garelochhead to Arrochar was a tough day. The weather was much brighter than yesterday so we could see some of the views we couldn’t see yesterday.
So that we could both walk together we took the car to Arrochar station and the train down to Garelochhead. Our plan was to walk back on the Three Lochs Way.

At Arrochar station a local resident explained that the path between the station and the village was closed due to timber being moved. This meant we’d need to take a different, shorter route into the village, but it wasn’t on our map.

Anyway we got started on the 10.06 to Garelochhead. It’s one stop and at the station we were only a short hop from the starting point, the place where the Three Lochs Way Sustrans link path takes off towards the American Road part of the route (as explained in the Three Lochs Way Guide Book).
It was quite steep and there were some squelchy bits. However we were soon on the American Road, as the tarred part of the Three Lochs Way is called. It is also an MOD training area, but the only people training today were us!
There was a lot to see: great views and varied flora and fauna, butterflies, orchids and much more.

 

The next section is called the Gurkha Bato and was built by Gurkha engineers in 2010. 

There followed two footbridges. The first was a bit dodgy so we just held our breath on that one. The second is called the Dave Markland bridge in memory of Warrant Officer Dave Markland who managed the development of the Gurkha Bato but who was KIA in Afghanistan in 2010. We ate our lunch by the second bridge.

 The Dave Markland bridge (below)

The track from the bridge was steeply uphill to the next section of the forest track. It was hot and a struggle. The route was taking us a long time and a lot of energy. When we got to the road to Douglas Glen we reassessed the situation and decided to descend to the Loch side road and walk into Arrochar that way. We’d driven on the road yesterday so we had an idea what it was like. It was a good decision. We made better time. Two miles on this section were sponsored: mile 800 by Anne and mile 802 by Renee. Thanks very much for the sponsorship. It was less physically demanding and there were lovely views of Loch Long.

Just before Arrochar, Mansefield Studio was an inviting place for ice cream and a cool drink. Bob then set off to pick up the car from the station and I went back to the hotel.
My overall total is now over 800 miles since Land’s End.

From Psalm 40

God set my feet on a rock and gave me a firm place to stand, so I could sing God a new song.

I often make up songs when I am walking!

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 06.07.2019
Day 83 of the End to End, Garelochhead to Arrochar.

Day 82 of the End to End took me back to the Scotland I remember from holidays in my childhood. We would holiday in Scotland during the summer and I still have a journal I kept when I was 9 years old (it’s the oldest journal I still have). Grey sky, rain in varying amounts, views obscured by clouds and then, if the weather cleared, a paddle at the water’s edge somewhere at the end of the day.

 Today I took the train from Carsdyke to Gourock while Bob took the car across the Clyde via the Erskine bridge. I got to take the Kilcreggan ferry, a small pedestrian ferry across to the Roseneath Peninsula.
There were not many passengers but there were Eider Ducks on the water.

At Kilcreggan I called in at the post office and also got a sausage roll as a snack before the serious walking. I walked along the coast road and admired a well known rock on the beach that has become a local landmark.

Bob parked at Garelochhead and walked back towards me. Meanwhile I had various adventures: a lot of caterpillars on nettles (maybe Peacock butterfly again), a cow in the middle of the road and two butterfly orchids on the roadside.

We met on the road across the Peninsula on a very steep hill. We stopped for lunch at the Peaton Hill community nature reserve where it was good to have a sit down.

The second half of the days walk was along the Gareloch. The road was busier and there were views of the Faslane Base. The rain got a bit heavier and after the welcome shore path across the top of Gareloch, we stopped at the Perch Cafe for some afternoon tea including some very tasty cakes.

It was then only a short walk to Station Road where today’s walk ended. There was a drive to the Arrochar hotel which is beside Loch Long where we are staying. The rain continued to fall and the low cloud obscured the Loch views, more like a holiday in my childhood.

From Psalm 147

God covers the sky with clouds supplying the earth with rain and making grass grow on the hills.

The rain is a vital part of a cycle that makes the hills green and fills the lochs with water. The land is the land because of the rain. 
God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end. 

JAL 05.07.2019

Day 82 of the End to End,  Gourock to Garelochhead via Kilcreggan ferry.

9 

Day 81 of the End to End was a lovely walk from Boglestone to Gourock. Bob got me onto route 75 behind the shops at Boglestone roundabout. It provided an interesting set of contrasts: the derelict factory alongside the extensive wildflower meadows with views over the Clyde thrown in.

The flowers did, of course include orchids. Mostly early spotted orchids but one amazing butterfly orchid, the first I’ve ever seen.

 Early spotted (above) and Butterfly (below)

The path continued via some green shady sections and crossed Devol burn. It wasn’t very busy and Bob soon met me not far from where we had a meal last night, having left the car back at our accommodation.
We came down towards the coast where route 75 and the Clyde Coastal path combine. This took us alongside many historical features of the area like the Custom’s House. There was also a large cruise ship docked at Clyde Port.
For lunch we popped into Cafe Mor, formerly a church with hymn board and font still evident.

The soup option was Scotch Broth. It was at this point that I had to revisit my opinion of pearl barley, something I’d pretty much loathed since childhood. The soup was very good, as was the Strawberry Tart to follow.
We continued around the Clyde Coastal path, which went around the Esplanade, a 19th century walkway along the riverside. The houses facing the river here have been home to many historical characters from Greenock’s past and still look very comfortable.

We approached Gourock via the Pier that I will use tomorrow. Having checked that out we had a brief walk around Gourock Pierhead. This included a photograph outside the swimming pool I went to yesterday and an ice cream, before getting the train back to Carsdyke.

From Genesis 25

Then Jacob gave him some bread and some of the soup. Esau ate and drank and then got up and left.

Two brothers and a bowl of soup! The stuff of soap operas: scenes like this pepper the Bible. Sibling rivalry is seen the world over and Jacob and Esau are little different from many other examples, from ancient to contemporary.

God, help us to put old rivalries aside and build mature relationships instead of battling over soup.

Grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 04.07.2019
Day 81 of the End to End, Boglestone to Gourock.