Day 90 of the End to End, marks the beginning of the last month the walk. Today I walked to Kinlochleven via the Devil’s Staircase.
Folks do wonder about this section of the West Highland Way and we’ve been asked about it by other walkers. I wonder why there are so many satanic landmarks in Britain. The Devil’s Beeftub in the Southern Uplands; the Devil’s Elbow in Derbyshire and now the Devil’s Staircase. Maybe you can think of some other devilish locations?
I started not far from Kingshouse and the first section of the path to Altnafeadh, that I’d considered walking last night, didn’t present any difficulties. It did offer some super views of Buachaille Etive Mor, the Great Herdsman of Glencoe.
Bob and Hannah were at Altnafeadh, which is clearly a busy spot on a summer morning, to fill my water bottles and make sure I had everything I needed for the big climb.
The path began to curve steeply upwards and I could see my ant like companions zigzagging backwards and forwards higher up the climb. It’s the sort of walk where you get to recognise each other, passing individuals and groups on the ascent as we rest and walk, walk and rest, all the way up.
Rather than a Devil’s Staircase, it had me in mind of Jacob’s dream of a ladder stretching between earth and heaven, with Angels going up and down.
At the top of the pass I nearly took the wrong path up higher, but realised my error and chose the descending path. It had taken me about an hour and a half to the top, with three rests. Pretty good on a hot morning.
The descent to the Kinlochleven side is longer than the ascent, and Bob tells me is probably the longest descent of the whole End to End. The path was better, possibly recently overhauled, and the fords were easily negotiated.
I was entertained by Caw and Grunt, two playful aerobatic ravens who were wheeling around in the blue sky.
I had a conversation with a French couple I met on the way down and then ate my lunch sitting on a rock by the path. After 5 miles or so, Bob met me on the path up from the village. There were some steep patches on the descent but we made it to the village without incident where Hannah was waiting. We had ice cream in the National Ice Climbing Centre, but trying that out is an adventure that will have to wait for another day.
From Genesis
In his dream of a ladder stretching between heaven and earth, Jacob saw Angels going up and down.
God of mountain and sky, maker of heaven and earth,
We dream of many things: of justice and peace in the world and courage to play our part in it.
We are thankful for all those who have accompanied these steps, the angels from many nations, going up and down.
As we look up to where ravens fly, lift our hearts for the next part of the journey.
At day’s end, grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.
JAL 14.07.2019
Day 90 of the End to End from near Kingshouse to Kinlochleven.