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Day 75 of the End to End was a very hot one. I had plenty of water with me but it was hard going. I started at Auchinleck station, as hot this morning as yesterday afternoon.
The road to Catrine was reasonably quiet and included some nice stretches of wild flowers, including early spotted orchids. I had a rest in the car at Catrine, and some lunch and ice cream. The clear day made it easy to see the profile of the Isle of Arran to the west.

Bob then came with me to the River Ayr Way. Once again it proved to be a good route to have chosen. Through riverside woodland there was a good path and it was cooler. There were a number of bridges. We went under the A76, then over the Ayr and later under the Ballochmyle Viaduct (completed in 1848). Bob went back to the car and I continued on the path, that emerged at Haugh.

My route to the main road was via Station Road. There’s currently no station operating at Mauchline but there is a campaign underway to have it reinstated. The milestone on the A76 confirmed 9 miles to Kilmarnock (but that’s tomorrow).

I stopped at the Burns House Museum at the cross roads in Mauchline. There’s a lot of Burns memorabilia in the town in which he lived before he married. In the museum we sat down for a cool rest and listened to a recording of his poem ‘To a mouse’.

We picked up an ice cream on the way back to the car: it had been a very hot day for a walk. We popped back to Sorn, a village east of Catrine, further back on the River Ayr Way, to see the old bridge and the church.

From Psalm 113

From the rising of the sun to the place where it sets, God’s name is praised.

Today, the sun rose in blue sky.
Today, the sun set in blue sky.
Today it was wall to wall sunshine,
And God is praised globally.

Now we ask God for a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 28.97.2019
Day 75 of the End to End, Auchinleck to Mauchline

Our second opportunity to use the local Scotrail service to get to the start of the walk occurred today, the day after the first, as we continue in the A76 corridor.
Therefore, Day 74 of the End to End began at New Cumnock. We arrived on the 09.20 train from Sanquhar. New Cumnock, where we left off yesterday, was so named when the Parish of Cumnock was split in 1650 as it was thought too big. So not so new then. Cumnock, or Old Cumnock, was where we were heading today on our way to Auchinleck station.

We began at the statue of Robert Burns, which is opposite the Miner’s Memorial. There’s plenty of Burns memorabilia in these parts as he lived or stayed around here a lot and wrote plenty of his poems with local places in mind, like Afton Water, the local river.
We took the footpath through the Knochshinnoch Lagoons Wildlife Reserve which has been established on an area of old coal spoil heaps near the town. There was a wide range of wild flowers including early spotted orchids and many insects and birds.

The rest of the walk was on small back roads to Cumnock. The best bit was finding wild strawberries by the roadside and a man who’d made a notice saying ‘2 mph Elderly People at Play’. We stopped for some refreshments at the Ayrshire factory outlet as it was a very hot day and our ice cream levels needed replenishing.

Cumnock remembers Keir Hardie, the first elected Labour MP with a bust outside the Town Hall and a plaque on his house. The day continued very hot right to Auchinleck station and the train back to Sanquhar was a welcome respite.

From Psalm 19

The sun rises at one end of the heavens
and makes its circuit to the other;
nothing is deprived of its warmth.

The very warm sun has shone on us all day,
Making its way from East to West.
Our drinking water got rather warm, but we had plenty.
We are thankful.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 27.06.2019
Day 74 of the End to End, New Cumnock to Auchinleck via Cumnock, and return by train.

There were several interesting features of Day 73 of LEJOG. The first was we were both walking together all day. This was possible courtesy of Scotrail. Their bizarre timetable for local stations on the Carlisle to Glasgow line meant it was theoretically possible for us to do the journey to the start and from the end of the walk by train. It was worth a try.
The second interesting things was coal. For my generation, coal was a rock we knew about. Our house was heated by a coal fire in my youth. Now coal is out and areas like the one we are walking through tell the story of the rise and fall of King Coal.
We took the train from Sanquhar to Kirkconnel for the start of the walk. The valley is framed by a number of spoil heaps. Most have not been turned into imaginative structures like the Crawick Multiverse we visited yesterday. We passed the Miner’s Memorial and museum we saw at the end of yesterday’s walk at the beginning of the walk today.
The path alongside the main street past the village church lead to a monument to local poet and railway man, Alexander Anderson. (1845-1909). One of his poems was about the Kirkconnel hills which we were about to experience first hand.

Bob had looked at the road yesterday just to make sure it was navigable, as we knew that the area had been altered by open caste coal mining. Following the instructions he’d been given we had no difficulty making it up to the windfarm and back onto the road down to Mansfield.
Most of the route was pleasant providing great views of those Kirkconnel hills, apart from some awful fly tipping at the hillside end of the road.

There were a wide range of wild flowers and butterflies, also lorries moving logs down to the valley. We were soon walking into Mansfield which is actually the village by New Cumnock station. Unfortunately the station cafe was very hot. A short walk down the street revealed some of the ongoing economic struggles in New Cumnock. Several buildings in that Street and the bridge required repair and the garage was up for sale. We ended the walk on a small green space on which stood the New Cumnock Miner’s Memorial, reminding us once again of the heritage of the area.

We took the train back to Sanquhar where I made a brief visit to the museum to see some local textiles. Sanquhar is well known for hand knitting and its own traditional patterns.

We were lucky to see a stoat cross the road on the way back to Lochside.

From Psalm 40

I waited patiently for God, who turned
to me, hearing my cry.
He lifted me out of the horrible pit of mud and mire and set my feet on rock, giving me a firm place to stand,
And putting a new song in my mouth, a hymn of praise to God.

God my rock, foundation for my life,
Each step confirms my trust in you.
I stand firm in your love and I continue to sing about that!

Grant me a quiet night and a peaceful end. 

JAL 26.06.2019
Day 73 of the End to End, Kirkconnel to New Crumnock.

On Day 72 of the End to End I now have fewer than 50 days to go: a point I couldn’t have imagined at the beginning of April. This is definitely summer, the pattern of the days and sights and sounds in the landscape confirm this. We’ve moved on through Lent and Eastertide. Pentecost has been celebrated and we’re now in what is affectionately called Ordinary Time. The colour for Ordinary Time is green which is handy as I’m completely surrounded by green and have been more or less for 72 days. But green is not ordinary, it’s amazing.

Today I began the walk at Glenairlie Bridge and took the road alongside the River Nith, through farmland and strips of woodland. Sometimes I was near the river and sometimes further away as we wandered through the landscape side by side. Insects were busy, flowers were blooming, grass was growing and livestock was inquisitive. At one farm the nut on the slurry spreader was stuck and not budging for anyone. I left them to it.

For a brief while my route joined the Southern Upland Way as it went into Sanquhar. We had our picnic lunch at a bench on the corner. Then the last stretch took me into Kirkconnel, a former pit village. The local Co op provided ice cream for today. I wonder what the founders would have made of it?

I saw them on the wall at the small local museum in the high street, not far from the Miner’s Memorial where I finished my walk today.

We did a bit of a rekky for tomorrow’s route before stopping off at the Crawick Multiverse. This wonderful creative space has been made out of an area of former mining spoil heaps. Designed by Charles Jencks, it provides a lot of space for the imagination.

In a sheltered corner behind a bank a beautiful congregation of orchids were flowering. By the end of the day I had walked 699.89 miles. Well 700 to you!

On a bench by the Nith

Climb the mountains and get their glad tidings (John Muir)

From Isaiah 55

You will go out in joy

and be led forth in peace;

the mountains and hills

will burst into song before you,

and all the trees of the field

will clap their hands.

Gladness and joy overflow in me on this day of a most extra-ordinary time.
May God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 25.06.2019
Day 72 of the End to End from Glenairlie bridge to Kirkconnel

And there was morning and there was afternoon, the 71st day: a day of two halves. It was forecast to be wet in the morning so we did a few odd jobs like washing during which time there was some thunder and lightening.
Then we drove up to Wanlockhead which is Scotland ‘s highest village at 1531 feet above sea level. The drive up through the Mennock Pass was spectacular. The area was formerly a base for lead mining and there is a museum there now telling the story of the area since the 18th century. We had lunch in the visitors centre as the rain continued to fall.

After lunch, the rain was easing and we drove back to Drumlanrig Castle to start the walk. We’d had a lot of discussion about whether or not to use the path by the River Nith. We thought it might be a bit too wet after the rain. However, when I looked at it, I thought it looked like a well drained track and decided to go that way.
I’m glad I did. It was a beautiful path through mixed woodland within sound if not always sight of the river. Now dominated by foxgloves and ferns with both broad leaved and coniferous trees in the canopy, the path, though well signed, was dark at times on a grey day.

Bob walked back towards me and after we met, we also saw some early spotted orchids.

Once back on the road it was only a few minutes walk to Glenairlie bridge. A plaque on the bridge tells of a terrible 19th century accident that left its mark on the stonework, in which a horse died in a thunderstorm. It marked the end of today’s walk and there had been no further rain.

A poem, looking through the window at this morning’s storm.

Crack of Light

A silver nick,
A lightening tick,
Cracks through the cloud
All thundering down
The distant hills.
The ragged edge,
Like a whiskered hedge,
Parts silently
Enough to see
The promised good.

For now, God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 24.06.2019
Day 71 of the End to End, Drumlanrig Castle to Glenairlie bridge.

Day 70 of the End to End was another day in which we’d drawn a line on the map and walked along and then found all sorts of surprises along the way.
It began at Auldgirth Inn and the first thing was to cross the Nith by the Auldgirth Bridge. Now an elaborate footbridge, it used to be the road bridge.

The roadside verges continued to provide a lot of interesting sights. Foxgloves are looking majestic at the moment but there’s much more. Nettles grow close together with dock which is handy is you should inadvertently stumble into the former. The nettles are a source of life for many other species, including some colourful fungal rust and other creatures.
There were many bees out today, and that was good news for the scores of apiaries near Cleuch House. I bought some Scottish blossom honey, a summer honey made by the bees in the summer meadows I’m currently walking through.

Bob met me and we stopped for lunch on a wall near Porterstown farm. We then walked into Keir Mill. This small village was the home of Kirkpatrick Macmillan who invented the bicycle. His tombstone in the village cemetery reveals a family story that was common in this area in the 19th century with the early death of his wife and several children. Examination of other adjacent gravestones tell much the same story. The local school teacher lost two children in infancy and three sons to the wars of the early 20th century, for example.

The bridge at the end of the village provided a spot to converse with some cyclists. The local cycle route here is named in memory of Kirkpatrick Macmillan.
I rejoined the road and walked the last few miles to the Drumlanrig eastate in Bob’s company.

From Psalm 119

Your words taste so sweet; sweeter than honey in my mouth!

The bees are very busy and the meadows and verges are alive with their buzzing.
Each flower makes an inviting place for a bee: foxglove and dog rose, each one a cup for a bee to drink from.
The golden nectar that the bees produce is a special bounty, replaying the taste of summer on our lips.
It’s no wonder that ancient people likened this liquor to God’s words.

May God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end

JAL 23.96.2019
Day 70 of the End to End from Auldgirth Inn to Drumlanrig Castle

Day 69 of the End to End, we left Dumfries and caught up with the place where we left the route on Thursday, which was near Greenbogue farm.
It was a warm, sunny day and even walking was thirsty work. It was some weeks since we last had this kind of weather on LEJOG. The first section was to Kirkton, which had a large (closed) church. Church of Scotland churches seem less likely to be open than Parish churches in England. Just outside the village, the War Memorial is set on a hill and commands a good view.

With the whole walk so far along the road I was struggling for distractions. There were a few buzzards about, including one feasting on a pigeon in a field by the road. Another was calling to it from the trees.
The next lay-by revealed the hungrier caterpillars of the walk so far making a meal of the local nettles. Although still tiny, you can just see the body hairs developing on some of them. This photo is especially for hungry caterpillar fans like Jenny and Joseph.

Bob met me and we had lunch at the Dalswinton chapel. This metal chapel was erected in 1881 and is painted red.

Behind the chapel is a Journey Garden, designed as a place to remember the lives of those who have worked at Dalswinton. In the centre of the garden there is a stone labyrinth.

A path through the wood led out to Dalswinton village. With only a couple of miles left, we were soon at Auldgirth Inn, the end of today’s walk, for a cool drink.
We then drove to Sanquhar to our accommodation for the week ahead at Lochside, not far from the Southern Upland Way.

From the Labyrinth at Dalswinton

Look where you have been,
View where you are at,
Seek where you want to be

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 22.06.2019
Day 69 of the End to End from Greenbogue farm to Auldgirth Inn.

We decided that as I’m currently two days ahead of schedule it would be a good idea to have a day off at Whithorn. Moving on from Hoddom Castle, our first stop was Kelhead Water, originally an 18th century Quarry now a lovely place to see wild flowers: ragged robin, water lillies, irises and especially orchids.

We then rejoined the A75 to go West towards Whithorn. We took our time to visit the Priory and adjacent museums, including a reconstructed iron age round house. This is based on the finds of a nearby excavation of a house dated to 450BC. The early Christian stone crosses from 400 to 1100AD are also fascinating.

After lunch in Whithorn we drove to the car park for Ninians cave, on the coast SW of Whithorn. The walk to the cave through a beautiful strip of woodland emerged onto a stony beach with the cave at one end. Again the wild flowers were a feast. 

The stones and surf also made lovely patterns. It was a thoroughly enjoyable day, which I finished off with a bit of ice cream at Carsluith castle on the way back to Dumfries.

For one night we’re at the Townhouse Hotel, helpfully near the Noblehill fish and chip shop.

From Psalm 8

When I consider the heavens, the work of your fingers,
The moon and the stars, which you have set in place,
What is humanity that you are mindful of them,
Human beings that you care for them?

We can go back centuries,
Your story recalled in rocks and stones
And in long buried remains from the past.
I marvel at your continued care.
Standing on the shore, close to Ninian’s cave, the sea and land and sky
Make a majestic sight.
I am thankful.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 21.06.2019
Midsummer’s day, not walking LEJOG.

Some walking days are busier than others. Today was Day 68 of the End to End and it was one of the less busy ones. It started near Ruthwell (without a) Station. The main features of the road ahead were it was mostly straight with tall foliage on the verges. This meant that the well placed milestones were largely obscured. From time to time there would be a short section of footway like at Mouswald between the church and school. Presumably once a frequently used route, the church is currently up for sale.

A lot of the fields are being cut for hay and it is a busy time. Some cut fields are well shorn. Other fields not yet cut still have a variety of grass and flowers.
The half way point today was Drummuir Farm ice cream parlour, just in time for 11s. It seemed churlish to try just one flavour so I had three. It seems there is an Ice Cream Trail in Scotland. I’ll report on any that are in our route, of course.

The next place to note was Collin. I have been trying to think of something witty to say about it but have so far failed to come up with anything. There’s a pedestrian tunnel under the A75 which is helpful. The post office operates from the Village Hall 2 lunchtimes a week and we were just in time to get some stamps.
The last 2 miles were going well until Bob joined me and invited a short, heavy shower. The road was soon steaming when the sun came out again.
Tonight is our last night at Hoddom Castle camp site which has been excellent. Due to the number of miles in hand, tomorrow is a non walking day for a side visit to Whithorn.
Also, in case you hadn’t heard, at 3am, Mel Nicholls smashed the Handcycle LEJOG record getting to John O’Groats in 6 days, 22 hours and 18 minutes. Brilliant!
I’m some days behind her.

From Psalm 72

May God be like rain falling on a mown field, like showers watering the earth.

We see the rain as it approaches from the coast:
Grey clouds bubble up, streaks fall like curtains, a hard shower peppers the road.
Then, when the sun comes out, steam rises like a hot spring, or the surface of a bath.
This, thankfully, is water.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 20.06.2019
Day 68 of the End to End, Ruthwell Station to near Greenbogue farm.

There was a lot to fit into Day 67 of the End to End, that started at a junction on the B724 near Milnfield. Like yesterday there was a bit of busy road walking to start with but it didn’t get to me as much as yesterday. Maybe I had got a bit more used to it. You certainly have to keep your wits about you. Maybe it was finding a side route to Powfoot which though longer was much quieter. It certainly helped.
Part of the Sustrans network, this was a cycle route and I’ve used lots of them. This one ran alongside the Solway Firth and had beautiful views. Attempts to develop Powfoot as a leisure and health centre at the turn of the 19th century led to the construction of a bathing pool that can still be seen today.

The Powfoot hotel was a lovely place for a cool drink. This was the hottest days walk in a while. My greatest disappointment was the lack of Natterjacks, despite signs to look out for them. Bob joined me for a picnic as the cycle route came back to the road.

That road was long and straight and was lined with foxgloves, dog roses and comfrey, all showing a great range of colour variation.
It took us to the Ruthwell savings bank museum, which is definitely worth a visit. Site of the first savings bank in Britain, it is part of the history of the Trustee Savings Bank which now owns the building.
The bank was started by Henry Duncan, a local minister. It was the first bank in which women could have account of their own and control it themselves. Children too could open an account for 6d. With the money generated from the savings bank the community was able to open a school and hire a teacher all at a time when working class people lacked access to savings banks.

Henry Duncan didn’t stop at the savings bank. His efforts to describe the fossilised footprints of a quadruped found in local sandstone culminated in have an extinct giant tortoise named after him. He was Moderator of the Church of Scotland in due course and then active in the Disruption which lead to the founding of the Free Presbyterian Church in 1842.
However it is the preservation of the Ruthwell cross that I’d primarily come to see. This piece of Anglo-Saxon art still stands in Ruthwell church, next on my itinerary and just up the road.

Thought to have been one of a line of pilgrim crosses from Whithorn to Lindisfarne the cross has survived some hard times. Its dismemberment in the 17th century came at the decree of the Church of Scotland. However, today it once again stands in a Church of Scotland church due to the efforts of Henry Duncan.
It is originally thought to have been carved by Italian sculpters and the carvings still show a lot of detail. Most interesting is a panel said to show Mary and Martha, not a pair I’ve seen before on stone crosses of this age. Duncan was unable to find the original cross piece and had another carved to replace it.

Behind the cross, three stained glass windows depict the Northern Saints: Aidan, Cuthbert and Hilda.

From Ruthwell it was not far to the end of today’s walk at Ruthwell Station, although of course it no longer has one. Luckily Drummuir Farm does now make ice cream and we stopped for a quick one and a bit more research into the Ice Creams of Britain.

From Mark 15

And they crucified him

Here it stands, after all this time,
Silently telling the story,
And central to it all,
Carved in stone and irrefutable:
He was crucified.
When I survey this wondrous cross…

God grant me a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 19.06.2019
Day 67 of the End to End from Milnfield on the B724 to Ruthwell Station