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Day 84 of the End to End followed stage 4 of the Three Lochs Way from Arrochar to Inveruglas. It was not a long walk being about 6 miles and it was a lovely day.
Bob came with me for the first mile through Arrochar village to the start of the path at the head of Loch Long. The path is shared with the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way which comes in from the west.

It winds its way up through woodland and meadows full of flowers and insects to a small rocky pass. Although steep at times there were plenty of places to rest, great views and lots to see. I knew I’d reached the top when the power lines, which follow the same route started to dip downwards.

The downhill path went through more woodland and came out to a small bridge over Inveruglas water. The valley is surrounded by spectacular peaks. It had taken me just under two hours to do the four miles or so.

I met Bob on the hydro road and there was an easy route down to the main road, past the Sloy Power Station, a hydroelectric scheme. There’s a footpath along the main road to the Inveruglas visitors centre, where I signed the book of achievement. It took them a while to find it and mine was the first name in the book.

There were good views over Loch Lomond and the nearby Inveruglas island. A new structure that has won an architectural prize provides an elevated view point. We drove back to Tarbert for some lentil soup.

From Psalm 46

Be still and know that I am God

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end
JAL 08.07.2019
Day 84 of the End to End, Arrochar to Inveruglas

As we have two days in hand on the End to End route, we decided to have a rest day today. It was a bright day and the hills and lochs of this part of Argyll are beautiful at anytime of the year, so it was ideal territory for a break from walking.
Back in 2000, Bob cycled from Sheffield to Iona (Gwen and I arranged a pilgrimage to Iona for people from Shiregreen URC) and on that journey he cycled up the Rest and be Thankful Pass. So that was our first spectacular stop. It was named by the soldiers who made the Military Road here in the 18th century.

We then drove onto Inveraray, a small town on Loch Fyne. It was a lovely morning for an ice cream by the lochside after a walk round the town. There is a 15th century stone cross near the Pier and the ship Vital Spark rests by the Pier. Bob will probably write more about that as he remembered the connection to a TV show.

We then drove a little further towards Loch Awe to Portsonachan, which is a very small place, for a picnic lunch. On the way we found a cake shop in a phone box, which was excellent timing.

It had been a restful adventure.

From Psalm 3

I call out to God, who answers me from the holy mountain.
I lie down and sleep and I wake up again, because God keeps me going.

Rest is essential.
We are thankful for it.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 07.07.2019
A rest day on the End to End between Arrochar, Inveraray and Portsonachan via the Rest and be Thankful Pass.

Day 83 of the End to End from Garelochhead to Arrochar was a tough day. The weather was much brighter than yesterday so we could see some of the views we couldn’t see yesterday.
So that we could both walk together we took the car to Arrochar station and the train down to Garelochhead. Our plan was to walk back on the Three Lochs Way.

At Arrochar station a local resident explained that the path between the station and the village was closed due to timber being moved. This meant we’d need to take a different, shorter route into the village, but it wasn’t on our map.

Anyway we got started on the 10.06 to Garelochhead. It’s one stop and at the station we were only a short hop from the starting point, the place where the Three Lochs Way Sustrans link path takes off towards the American Road part of the route (as explained in the Three Lochs Way Guide Book).
It was quite steep and there were some squelchy bits. However we were soon on the American Road, as the tarred part of the Three Lochs Way is called. It is also an MOD training area, but the only people training today were us!
There was a lot to see: great views and varied flora and fauna, butterflies, orchids and much more.

 

The next section is called the Gurkha Bato and was built by Gurkha engineers in 2010. 

There followed two footbridges. The first was a bit dodgy so we just held our breath on that one. The second is called the Dave Markland bridge in memory of Warrant Officer Dave Markland who managed the development of the Gurkha Bato but who was KIA in Afghanistan in 2010. We ate our lunch by the second bridge.

 The Dave Markland bridge (below)

The track from the bridge was steeply uphill to the next section of the forest track. It was hot and a struggle. The route was taking us a long time and a lot of energy. When we got to the road to Douglas Glen we reassessed the situation and decided to descend to the Loch side road and walk into Arrochar that way. We’d driven on the road yesterday so we had an idea what it was like. It was a good decision. We made better time. Two miles on this section were sponsored: mile 800 by Anne and mile 802 by Renee. Thanks very much for the sponsorship. It was less physically demanding and there were lovely views of Loch Long.

Just before Arrochar, Mansefield Studio was an inviting place for ice cream and a cool drink. Bob then set off to pick up the car from the station and I went back to the hotel.
My overall total is now over 800 miles since Land’s End.

From Psalm 40

God set my feet on a rock and gave me a firm place to stand, so I could sing God a new song.

I often make up songs when I am walking!

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 06.07.2019
Day 83 of the End to End, Garelochhead to Arrochar.

Day 82 of the End to End took me back to the Scotland I remember from holidays in my childhood. We would holiday in Scotland during the summer and I still have a journal I kept when I was 9 years old (it’s the oldest journal I still have). Grey sky, rain in varying amounts, views obscured by clouds and then, if the weather cleared, a paddle at the water’s edge somewhere at the end of the day.

 Today I took the train from Carsdyke to Gourock while Bob took the car across the Clyde via the Erskine bridge. I got to take the Kilcreggan ferry, a small pedestrian ferry across to the Roseneath Peninsula.
There were not many passengers but there were Eider Ducks on the water.

At Kilcreggan I called in at the post office and also got a sausage roll as a snack before the serious walking. I walked along the coast road and admired a well known rock on the beach that has become a local landmark.

Bob parked at Garelochhead and walked back towards me. Meanwhile I had various adventures: a lot of caterpillars on nettles (maybe Peacock butterfly again), a cow in the middle of the road and two butterfly orchids on the roadside.

We met on the road across the Peninsula on a very steep hill. We stopped for lunch at the Peaton Hill community nature reserve where it was good to have a sit down.

The second half of the days walk was along the Gareloch. The road was busier and there were views of the Faslane Base. The rain got a bit heavier and after the welcome shore path across the top of Gareloch, we stopped at the Perch Cafe for some afternoon tea including some very tasty cakes.

It was then only a short walk to Station Road where today’s walk ended. There was a drive to the Arrochar hotel which is beside Loch Long where we are staying. The rain continued to fall and the low cloud obscured the Loch views, more like a holiday in my childhood.

From Psalm 147

God covers the sky with clouds supplying the earth with rain and making grass grow on the hills.

The rain is a vital part of a cycle that makes the hills green and fills the lochs with water. The land is the land because of the rain. 
God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end. 

JAL 05.07.2019

Day 82 of the End to End,  Gourock to Garelochhead via Kilcreggan ferry.

9 

Day 81 of the End to End was a lovely walk from Boglestone to Gourock. Bob got me onto route 75 behind the shops at Boglestone roundabout. It provided an interesting set of contrasts: the derelict factory alongside the extensive wildflower meadows with views over the Clyde thrown in.

The flowers did, of course include orchids. Mostly early spotted orchids but one amazing butterfly orchid, the first I’ve ever seen.

 Early spotted (above) and Butterfly (below)

The path continued via some green shady sections and crossed Devol burn. It wasn’t very busy and Bob soon met me not far from where we had a meal last night, having left the car back at our accommodation.
We came down towards the coast where route 75 and the Clyde Coastal path combine. This took us alongside many historical features of the area like the Custom’s House. There was also a large cruise ship docked at Clyde Port.
For lunch we popped into Cafe Mor, formerly a church with hymn board and font still evident.

The soup option was Scotch Broth. It was at this point that I had to revisit my opinion of pearl barley, something I’d pretty much loathed since childhood. The soup was very good, as was the Strawberry Tart to follow.
We continued around the Clyde Coastal path, which went around the Esplanade, a 19th century walkway along the riverside. The houses facing the river here have been home to many historical characters from Greenock’s past and still look very comfortable.

We approached Gourock via the Pier that I will use tomorrow. Having checked that out we had a brief walk around Gourock Pierhead. This included a photograph outside the swimming pool I went to yesterday and an ice cream, before getting the train back to Carsdyke.

From Genesis 25

Then Jacob gave him some bread and some of the soup. Esau ate and drank and then got up and left.

Two brothers and a bowl of soup! The stuff of soap operas: scenes like this pepper the Bible. Sibling rivalry is seen the world over and Jacob and Esau are little different from many other examples, from ancient to contemporary.

God, help us to put old rivalries aside and build mature relationships instead of battling over soup.

Grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 04.07.2019
Day 81 of the End to End, Boglestone to Gourock.

Day 80 of the End to End would, when completed, mark two thirds of the days used. It would leave us with 40 days (and possibly 40 nights) to get to John O’Groats.
It began at Kilbarchan. The village has a history of weaving and radical politics. The Weaver’s Cottages in the centre of the village were unfortunately not open today.

I joined the disused railway path that is now National Cycle Route 75 at Bridge of Weir. The folks running the community centre and post office were very welcoming. The path was gentle walking much like yesterday, through fields of mixed farming. I passed the side path to Quarriers, the village built in the 19th century as the National Orphans Homes for Scotland. There were plenty of wild flowers, including common toadflax. It is know in different places by many different local names including ‘butter and eggs’ and ‘bread and butter’.

The next village was Kilmacolm. Bob met me and we had a picnic on a bench. In some places interesting sculptures have been erected often made from old recycled stuff.

I was soon walking down to the Boglestone Activity Centre, where the days walk ended.
However, it wasn’t the end of the days activity. I elected to visit the Gourock open air swimming pool, as I’d seen it mentioned and wanted to try it. Heated to 29 degrees it was easily warmer in the pool than out! It wasn’t very busy and I had a pleasant time floating in the warm salty water watching the changing cloudscape.
Later, Bob and I walked to an Indian restaurant in Greenock, looking at the paths for tomorrow’s walk when we planned to use the Clyde Coastal path.

From Matthew 6

And why get anxious about what you wear? See how the wildflowers grow, without weaving or spinning.
But not even King Solomon in all his splendor was dressed as well as one of these plants.

Most of us no longer make our clothing from scratch. It’s usually readily available, cheap enough and can be discarded just as quickly. We behave more like King Solomon, acting without thought for the origins of what we wear or who made it. Anxious only about what we look like.
But we will never rival the simple glory of wild flowers, everyone of them magnificent.

God release us from our anxieties.
Grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 03.07.2019
Day 80 of the End to End from Kilbarchan to Boglestone Activity Centre.

Day 79 of the End to End began at Beith and took a two and a half mile extra loop to join Sustrans route 7 near Kilbirnie. I managed the distance in 45 minutes, and my first three miles in 55 minutes, which must be some of my fastest times of the whole LEJOG so far.

It’s not the first time I’ve used Route 7, part of the National Cycle Network. After crossing the border I used Route 7 in the Arran area in Dumfries and Galloway. It’s a route that goes right across Scotland. At this point it’s following a old railway route, the former Dalry to North Johnstone line. The line was closed to passengers in 1966 and the cycle path opened in 1988. It also forms part of the Whithorn Way, the Pilgrim route from Glasgow to the Isle of Whithorn.
Once I’d got onto it, I settled down to a more sensible pace as I had at least another 7 miles to go for the day. Also because there were a great number of early common spotted orchids in the meadows alongside the first part of the trail that I wanted to photograph.

It was a beautiful route and I’m so glad we decided to use it. As well as the meadows and strips of woodland, there were also many small pools alongside the track creating many different habitats. Bob came to meet me from Lochwinnoch car park. When we got there we had a picnic by the lochside and picked up an ice cream at the visitors centre.

The second half of the day was similar with the tree lined route replete with lovely flowers and other interesting sights, including the occasional sculpture and some wild strawberries.

There was the Collegiate Church of Castle Semple, which is now a ruin, and other parts of the old estate. There was also an odd wooden structure. Any ideas what it might be?

We arrived at Kilbarchan in good time, coming off route 7 at the former station. It hadn’t been too hot, no rain and easy walking. During the course of the day I passed the 1000 miles mark for walking so far this year.

From Psalm 25

God, show me the right path; point out the route for me to follow.

It’s good that this path is still being used as a sustainable traffic free route.
On the walk I’ve used many old routes and the country is criss-crossed with paths used by our forbears.
We walk in the footsteps of those who have gone ahead of us.

Christ before me, Christ above me,
Christ beside me, Christ behind me,
Christ in mouth of all who love me.
God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 02.07.2019
Day 79 of the End to End, Beith to Kilbarchan.

Day 78 of the End to End was a windy day in Ayrshire. By the end of the day I’d been in East, South and North Ayrshire and seen West Ayrshire which is basically the sea.
I started at Stewarton Station and the first part of the morning was along a fairly busy road. I’ve got more used to these over the last week or so. I put my head down and walk. Turning off onto a quieter side road after 3 miles or so was very welcome. The wind was strong and the gulls and corvids were noisily air surfing, something for which I admire them. But even so, it seemed unseasonal to have to wear my ear warmer on the 1st July.
It did,  however offer plenty of opportunities to plan great schemes, like my mobile ice cream delivery service. Imagine, a cyclist with a portable freezer powered by wind or solar or even pedal power,  a range of flavours from a local source, following a Lejogger on her route. Readily available ice-cream supplies would be very welcome in those parts of the country where the ice cream sellers are not so common. I’d call it ‘Deliverice’!
I met Bob for lunch at Burnhouse where the sign on the main road said it was 17 miles to Glasgow. However, we’re going the long way round.

The second part of the day took me past an odd collection of warehouses which seemed to store whisky. In this area, small orchids dotted the verges.

It was downhill to Beith at days end. We then did a few bits of reconnaissance for tomorrow when I hope to join a Sustrans route on a disused railway path.
We then took the coast road via Largs to eventually get to Greenock. We stopped at Largs for a blast of sea air and some ice cream.

Our accommodation in the Premier Inn at Greenock has a great view across the Clyde, to where we hope to be by the end of the week.

From Psalm 103

Human life is like grass, flourishing like a wildflower; but the wind blows over it and it is gone and forgotten.

Today the wind was blowing all the grass and wildflowers in every direction. Only a few Butterflies risked the weather: some painted ladies that have come up on the warm southerly wind earlier in the week and a couple of red admirals.

Loking out over the River Clyde as some small showers blow in, God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 01.07.2019
Day 78 of the End to End, Stewarton to Beith.

Day 77 of the End to End began grey and windy at Riccarton Parish church. A massive place on Judgement Mount, it was built in 1823. Heaven knows how many people it was built for of who goes there now. Like most of the Parish churches I’ve passed in Scotland, it was locked.
I walked through the town centre. Unfortunately at 9.30 on a Sunday morning the ice cream cafe was shut. So was most of the town centre. More worryingly quite a bit of it was empty. However there were attempts to entertain the passing visitors with some whimsical statues.

Having parked at the railway station, Bob caught me up. The plan was to walk to Stewarton and come back by train.
Although the road was largely straight on a wet and windy day that meant it was also quite exposed. The rain didn’t last more than a few miles and by the time we were walking downhill into Stewarton it had started to clear up.

We found a friendly cafe in the town centre and had an excellent toasted sandwich lunch with yummy cakes. We caught the train back to Kilmarnock as planned.

Later I took another turn round our little wildlife oasis exploring the meadow around the feet of the electricity pylon. A parent magpie was feeding a juvenile on a post, which I assumed had not long fledged.

There were plenty of Ringlet Butterflies in the grasses, and some large thistles. But best of all the dozens of orchids for this evenings edition of Kilmarnock Orchid Watch.

From Isaiah 40

The grass withers and the flowers fade, but God’s word lasts forever.

In a few weeks these orchids will have finished flowering. They will fade until next spring and summer. It was wonderful to find them here: an unexpected treat alongside all the buttercups, thistles, grasses and more, with Ringlets visiting at the moment.

May God grant us all a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 30.06.2019
Day 77 of the End to End, Kilmarnock to Stewarton.

Day 76 of the End to End had me heading for Kilmarnock. We left our lovely lodgings at Sanquhar for the last time. The weather was completely different from yesterday: overcast all day with Thunder later.
I set off from Mauchline, not far from the Burns National Memorial. On the first section of the walk I also passed the place where he used to farm. Any Burns link around here is noted on a plaque or a monument.

The hedgerows are changing again. Some old favourites continue like Red Campion and Ragged Robin. But the meadow sweet is now coming out and it has a strong sweet scent.

I attracted attention from several groups of young cattle but little else. I managed to miss the morning rain making it to the car for lunch just before it started.

With only three or so miles to go in the afternoon a few drops of rain where hardly noticed. However, the Thunder was! At times it was like walking through a hot house with the sprinklers on.
I crossed the by pass into Kilmarnock and walked up to Riccarton Parish church where the walk ended for the day.
We then moved onto the Kilmarnock Travelodge at the services between the A71 and A76. We stayed here two years ago on our way to Kintyre so this was a return visit. We also revisited the award winning fish and chip shop nearby.

The wild flowers meadows at the services play host to a world of wildlife. I ate my ice cream and enjoyed the diversity, especially of course, the orchids.

It may be a small place in Scotland but it was a good place to be.

From Psalm 29

God’s voice is heard in all its might and majesty: it breaks the cedars, even the cedars of Lebanon and makes the mountains of Lebanon jump like calves.

It’s not surprising the Psalmist likened God’s voice to Thunder. It is a glorious sound. Trees are broken: I saw a large beech tree damaged by an earlier storm. Groups of young cattle run up and down, clouds swirl overhead: it’s quite a display. In the meadows the wildflowers continue to bloom. When the storm is over the rabbits come out to see what all the fuss was about.

God grant now a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 29.06.2019
Day 76 of the End to End, Mauchline to Kilmarnock.