Day 108 of the End to End, that started at Carn Laith Broch, was somewhat perilous at times. We had spent considerable time researching the route. I did not want to spend all day walking along the verge beside the A9. The John O’Groats Trail is an option but its perils need to be considered. It’s not a fully marked Way so finding the route can be a challenge, but then we’ve managed poorly marked routes before. However, this one also has additional advertised perils like routes you can’t use at high tide, places where the route is squeezed between the railway and the edge of the cliff and other places where you need to be prepared to cross a 3 metre wide stream. Having considered all of this, we decided to use the John O’Groats Trail in the morning to Brora and after lunch along the Brora links. These proved perilous enough.
First, cattle can be perilous. They were big and mooed a bit. But that was all the cattle peril for today. There were other creatures, all less perilous: significant number of butterflies for example as have been reported inany places, taking advantage of a fine day and lots of flowering plants. There were also common seals lying on the beach in various places, a total of 20 altogether. Second, the tide was coming in, but Bob thought we had enough time to make it along the low route rather than the higher route for when the tide is in.
At Brora we had a picnic before I set off up the second part of the route north of the town. The path goes along the side of the golf course and was reasonably easy to follow and frequently placed benches were welcome. There were more butterflies in the dunes and even people swimming in the sea.
The most perilous part was being dive bombed by Arctic Terns near the dunes. There is a protected area here, but the Terns seem to take exception to any one coming along the path and I’d no wish to disturb them.
Bob had found the footpath off the golf course, which wasn’t easy. He met me in time to accompany me to the A9. Here the road peril started. I needed to do about 3 miles on the A9 because the Trail did not have many access points that fitted our requirements, and I didn’t want to ford the stream or get squeezed on the cliffs.
We have a high visibility vest for road walking and while the traffic is fast there’s not too much of it, and the verge is usually reasonable. Bob came to meet me and after three miles we stopped at the lay-by before Lothbeg. It’s a poignant spot as it includes the memorial to the last Wolf killed in Sutherland over 3 centuries ago. There are moves to reintroduce wolves to the Highlands. Maybe the remembered She wolf will not be the last to live in Sutherland after all.
Back at Helmsdale Hostel, an excellent place we’ve stayed before, we even got our old room back. Dropping a bottle of smoothie on my toe brought to an end a perilous day.
From Psalm 91
God will cover you with his feathers, and under his wings you will find refuge.
The cormorants hang their wings out to dry. A feather or two blows across the sand. The Arctic Terns spin in the air, clattering a noisy warning. These are the birds that God has counted and who’s feathered wings provide a refuge.
God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.
JAL 03.08.2019
Day 108 of the End to End, Carn Laith Broch to Lothbeg Lay-by.