Category Archives: stone

Reflections around Knapdale

Tarbert was the first place for reflections on our tour around Kintyre today. This small bustling town gathered around an active harbour has some lovely rippling reflections. The colourful buildings grouped around the harbour are reflected back in today’s warm sunlight. There was fresh bread, vegetables and fish, of course. The core of an ancient castle guards the town from the hill above.
A detour for petrol took us to Lochgoilhead, which meant crossing the Crinan canal. We retraced a few miles and then took the road around North Knapdale. We had our picnic lunch on the shores of Loch Caolisport, the hills and sky reflected in the clear blue water, the shore a treasure trove of stones and shells.
We made our way through the green lanes of Knapdale to see the stones of Kilberry. They are housed in a small smart shed and echo back a history of over 1,500 years. Some of the oldest stones carved with simple cross marks are made of a local mica type stone and still shimmer. Others, not quite so old, show more complex carving: figures, animals, decorative panels. The Christian story has been part of this landscape for a long time. The information panel explains how the stones came to be ‘in the care of the State’. Something we might well take for granted until we reflect how many other stones world wide are not accorded such protection.
In our last section around Knapdale we notched up several standing stones. They represent an even older story that we are still trying to piece back together. Could the story with which we are familiar be lost? Might it happen soon? What part might our silences play in such a loss?

If Christ’s disciples keep silent
These stones would shout aloud

Sea, sky and stones

We finally found the ogham stone a little way behind the church yard. It was coveted in whiskery lichen and the ogham marks very well eroded, but then it has been waiting there for sometime, in this bee loud meadow. There was a female common darter (dragonfly) chasing round the ragged rocks and red campion.
Gigha is a longer, flatter more arable island than Iona. The ruined church remembers St Cathan who brought the Gospel to Kintyre and the Western Isles in the 6th century from Ireland.
Fringed by green woodland the road south from the ferry also boasted two ‘honesty tables’, one selling shortbread and woolly hats the other eggs and candles.
Hannah had a cycle up and down and then we had some lovely lunch at the Gigha Hotel followed by ice cream from the little shop. This is a diversification in the Gigha economy and is made on the island with milk from the very cows she had cycled past on the north end.
The shallow bay by the south pier was a draw to almost everyone. Reached through another lovely wild flower meadow, with a wonderful crop of common orchids, it stretched on and on and was shallow enough to wade across which was pleasant and a cooling way to pass the afternoon.

From the warm sun and the cool sea
The green woodland and the colourful meadow,
The welcome and the care
Of this small island,
There is much to celebrate,
And remember gratefully.