LEJOG blog

After a few days rest, and picking up a hired campervan at Glossop, we set out to join the route again at Gloucester. We’d spent our first night in the smart red campervan that Bob has named Bambo (rather than Bambi) at Alton. Setting off from their on Day 32 we had a three hour drive to Gloucester.
First we needed to drop the Picanto at the end point of the walk so I would be able to pick it up later. This was the Red Lion Wainlode Hill. Hannah and I had camped there on her End to End 7 years ago.
Bob then dropped me at the toilet block in the car park in Gloucester we’d last seen in the rain on Thursday. It was about 1.30 pm which was later than we would have liked.
I bought a sandwich and set off on the Severn Way again. It was quite near the river level and rather overgrown with nettles already, with fallen trees as an extra hazard, which made progress rather slow.

I took the road through the village of Sandhurst, with a stop at St Lawrence’s church. At the end of the road a farmer in a tractor encouraged me onto the track to Sandhurst Hill, with the promise of a seat at the top and ‘the best view in Gloucestershire ‘.
From that seat I could see back to Gloucester Cathedral. After that it was more or less downhill to the Red Lion where the car was parked.

Bob had taken Bambo onto the next campsite at Blackmore End. I drove there via two small Worcestershire wildlife sites. I was trying to find some orchids I’d read about. After we’d had some our meal, Bob and I went back to look for them as it was only 10 minutes from the campsite, and had a glorious evening enjoying the spread or orchids across the meadows.

Consider the Lillies of the field,
They don’t work by spinning or weaving,
But nothing is better dressed than these flowers. 

May we be ever mindful of the vital importance of each species, 

Each one an irreplaceable part of the complexity of the cosmos: 

As we look around us, we need to heed the warnings to change our behaviours. 

For each earwig, shield bug, field mouse,
We give thanks. 

In each orchid filled meadow or cowslip lined cutting, we stand in awe, lapping up the evening light.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 07.05.2019

Day 32 of the End to End: from Gloucester to Red Lion Wainlode Hill.

Today was Day 31 of the walk and the last in section 1. If all went to plan I would walk into Gloucester and have walked over 300 miles so far.
I began on the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal building of which began at the end of the 18th century. It was once the widest and deepest canal in the world. Although I didn’t walk the whole of it it was a lovely walk, an easy flat path, and interesting in both wildlife and local sites.

Saul Junction is quite a busy place and also good for second breakfast at the Stables cafe. Bob had caught up with me by this point so it was two for breakfast.
At Parkend Bridge he went to take the car onto the days end point at Gloucester as I walked on. We met again near Hempsted Bridge and took a detour into the village to St Swithun’s church and the Lady Well. The well house was probably built in 14th century and has a statue on one side said to be St Anne with the Virgin Mary. The statue is damaged like many from that period. The well house is Grade 1 listed but unfortunately the well is now said to be dry.

Back on the canal we walked passed the site of the Priory Llanthony Secunda previously linked to the Well House.

It was clouding up and the kind of weather for which Gloucester has won recognition in Nursery Rhyme was soon pelting down on us. We walked swiftly through the dock area currently being redeveloped and onto the gothic cathedral, the not quite final point of this stage of the walk. That accolade was reserved for a convenient toilet in a car park on the west side of the city, where Bob picked me up.

See you back here in five days!

God grant us a quiet night,
A peaceful end for today and this part of the walk,
A safe journey and a calm return.

JAL 02.05.2019
Day 31of the End to End, Frampton on Severn to Gloucester.

• One of the places on my list to visit on the End to End was Slimbridge Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust. As I walked past the entrance road today was the right day for the visit. I was Day 30 of the walk and the beginning of week 5. I’ve seen and heard a lot if birds already on this walk but not quite so many diverse species in one place.

From Psalm 104
The birds nest beside the wetlands and sing among the branches of the trees. 

Slimbridge is a wonderful place. The birds are abundant, from the local to the more exotic. They look splendid and make a wide range of sounds. We heard whistling Ducks and a male cuckoo calling (which hopefully you can hear on this audio)

My favourite sight of the day was the Kingfisher bringing fish to the hole in the bank where the family were nesting. There were also some mammals and amphibians to admire.

Jesus said:

Oh Jerusalem how I wish I could gather you up like a hen gathers her chicks.

Some of the Ducks and geese already have young. Others are nesting both in the reserve and on the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal that I later continued to walk along.
There’s also a lot of wildflowers like the pungent wild garlic.
Today miles walked for LEJOG was fewer than other miles walked for the first time since the walk began.
As the birds call to each other at the end of the day, flocking to a safe roost.
So we gather close to you, our God.
Like a mother bird you shelter us.
May we mirror your care in the way we care for others,
Particularly our care for vulnerable people.

JAL 01.05.2019
Day 30 of the End to End, a visit to Slimbridge and a walk on the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal to Church End, Frampton.

You prepare a table for me;
My cup is full to the brim.
Surely goodness and mercy
Will be my constant companions.

The tide recedes,
The tide rises.
The wooden boards of the dock are revealed
And then covered again.
A lark rises from the grass,
A gull calls from a post.
The tide recedes,
The tide rises.
Be still and know God.

Prayers
For those who live and work on or by the river;
For those who have seen much change:
Those who welcomed that,
Those who resented it.
Lord have Mercy.

Praise and thanksgiving to God
Creator, Companion, Spirit.

JAL 30.04.2019
Sharpness picnic site on the Severn Way.

Having joined the Severn Way yesterday near Avonmouth, today’s walk, which was Day 28, was all on the Severn Way.
This meant it was fairly straightforward and I made good progress along the side of the river Severn in fair weather.

From Severn Beach I walked to New Passage and Old Passage. These two small riverside villages were the places where the ferries used to depart to take passengers across the Severn to Wales. This was the only way to cross before the bridge was opened in 1966. John and Charles Wesley had made the crossing.

Bob came to meet me on the path and we walked into the Severn View services together and had a drink and a snack there.

The next section of the path was to Oldbury on Severn. I met some cattle but apart from that I had the path to myself. Bob walked with me a bit at Oldbury to get a view of the power station as it was a similar type to one he used to visit in Wales 30 years ago. It is no longer providing electricity to the National Grid. There are a number of wildlife walks around the perimeter of the site.

I decided to walk onto Shepperdine in order to gain some miles so I could have some spare time to visit Slimbridge WWT later in the week. Shepperdine’s tiny iron church of St Marys is the smallest I’ve visited so far. It was erected in 1914 and services are still held there.

St Mary’s outside and inside

On the way to our accommodation in Almondsbury we made a detour back to Oldbury on Severn to the community shop for a few items, and then to St Alrida’s church. One of only 2 churches dedicated to this local saint it was built on the site of an Iron Age hill fort and I’d seen it from the Severn Way.

• 

Lord now let your servants go in peace:
Although the Way is long, you are still remembered here,
Your faithful servants offer worship and service,
Telling the story, keeping alight the light of faith,
To bring you glory, Creator, Son and Holy Spirit.

JAL 29.04.2019
Day 28 of the End to End, from Severn Beach to Shepperdine via Oldbury on Severn.

Day 27 was the day for the walk into Bristol, the biggest city on the route so far. Also the goal for the first section of the walk. The plan was to get to Bristol in a month and at the moment I’m on course to achieve that.

But it was quite different walking from the previous days of the walk which had been predominantly rural. As a result my daily descriptions and other records, like my scrapbook, have focused on the wild spring flowers and other wildlife. About 80% of the photographs I’ve taken so far are of plants. For me records of the natural world are an essential part of my walking. Will this change with a walk into the city?

The route had been chosen with care to get me onto the Severn Way as easily as possible. The Severn Way, one of Britain’s long distance paths, was the one Hannah used 7 years ago to get up into the Midlands. Although Hannah hadn’t been a great fan of the path I’d decided to use it too as it was largely flat. I will be walking in my daughter’s footsteps and that’s something I look forward to.
The first challenge was to cross the River Avon and to do that I used the cycle and footpath that goes alongside the M5. It’s quite vertiginous and during my crossing I was the only pedestrian on the path. You can’t see much of the M5 traffic due to the steel barriers but you can hear it and it is very loud. It also makes the path vibrate, up though your feet, which is a very odd feeling.

The phone number for the Samaritans is displayed at frequent intervals along the path with a phone in a box in the middle. Even so floral tributes are evidence that folks have died here recently. I give thanks for those who listen on the phone.
Both before and after the bridge the path goes via an established Greenway. This green corridor exists to encourage wildlife for the city and as far as the bird song is concerned it seems successful. For local people there was a community farm and also the local foodbank.

Bob met me and guided me to the start of the Severn Way via various industrial areas including the Co op distribution centre. I crossed the M5 and the M49. We lunched on a bench looking out into the Severn Estuary.

The last section of the day to Severn Beach was along the coast next to the railway. Arriving at Severn Beach we went to the same cafe we visited 7 years ago. Severn Beach was called the Blackpool of the South West in the 30s. Shirley’s Cafe has been provided local refreshments since 1940 making it the oldest still open in the seaside place. The food and welcome are both good.

Glorious things are found in this city:
Renewable energy is generated,
Local people serve and support others.
Help us to get the balance right
So that others may keep their balance.
May the city be green and glorious,
And these things spoken of far and wide.

JAL 28.04.2019
Day 27 of the End to End from Sheepway to Severn Beach via the Severn Way

On the 26th Day of the walk there was plenty of variety: windy weather, a lost path, celebration and views of Wales.
To begin with we’d all been warned about Storm Hannah and it was windy, particularly crossing the bridge over the M5.

Thankfully some paths were more sheltered, especially along the ridge a little way up from the coast path where the trees had formed a green tunnel the floor of which was scattered with bluebells.

But not all paths turn out to be that easy to find. The path between Swiss Valley and Walton St Mary was one such, so I went round the longer way by road, something I generally avoid.
The road up to Portishead was OK though and we stopped at the Ship Inn for some lunch and to celebrate the 250 mile mark.
Later this was topped off with an ice cream in Portishead High Street. This is St Nicholas Church where the Anglicans and URC work together.

The Severn Bridge was getting closer and bits of the Bristol channel coast revealed a signal station and windmill as well as an outdoor swimming pool.

Portbury common was near the end of today’s route, a small green oasis between housing, docks and marinas and the motorway. Our end point today was in Sheepway. The wind had started to drop and I’d walked through a storm.

Reflection on Psalm 46

God, our strength and refuge, a help in trouble;
In your embrace we are held firmly and closely.
As the wind drops, as the world stills around me,
So I too become still, to know you, Creator.

JAL 27.04.2019
Day 26 of the End to End, Clevedon craft centre to Sheepway

Thanks to so many who write encouragement to me each day. Whether it’s a simple ‘Woot!’ or a longer more complex interaction, I’m grateful. This post is dedicated to Anne who reminded me about Kennings, those compelling ancient word pairs with Scandinavian origins.

Today was the second day to be a Cheerful rain-walker. But the rain was not as heavy as the first wet day. I was walking along the old Strawberry Line which was reasonably sheltered. There were a few primroses near the beginning of the walk but they were on their last days, until next Spring, I hope. The track through the old cutting was like a green corridor. Both bird and bat boxes were common to attract the right kind of residents.

Bob bought along a snack for 11s and we ate in the rain. The walk down the old line finished at Yatton station which is still on the national rail network.

It was a walk of two halves with the next part on a road that was wet and somewhat busy. Somewhat wet, but not soaked, we arrived at the end point for the day which was the Clevedon Craft Centre. 

 This compact group of old buildings included a small but welcoming tea shop: Dot teas. It was time to embody my second Kennings for today and become my alter ego: Eager scone-eater.

You set a table before me,
And I feast eagerly:
I give thanks for the walk,
The weather and the company,
In every dimension.

JAL 26.04.2019
Day 25 of the End to End from Winscombe to Clevedon craft centre via the Strawberry Line.

Day 24 of the walk, our break for 11s was on a bench in the churchyard of St Gregory at Weare before we set off across the last part of the Levels. A local dogwalker stopped to ask us if we were looking for Frankie Howard’s grave. We weren’t.

Earlier in the morning, not long after I left Blackford, a man in a white van stopped to ask me if I wanted 4 bags of compost that were in the back of his van. I didn’t.
I mention these incidents only to illustrate some of the more humorous moments on the walk. We do have some laughs. There are also occasional incidents of adventure peril, usually when I take an unplanned or unscheduled route or detour. Recently some of these have involved Road Closed notices. At Stoughton cross the road was closed but having established through sign language (the road works were noisy) that I was on foot, I was waved through.
On other occasions it includes mud. Inspite opf yesterday’s rain and more heavy rain last night there wasn’t as much mud as I’d expected this morning.

Later, after I joined the Strawberry Line and saw my first primrose for several days, I saw an unexplained notice saying Detour Ended. It wasn’t clear what the detour was or where it went. I carried on. Another notice told me that there was a tunnel ahead and to ‘use my light’s that I didn’t have. However before the tunnel there were more notices, this time arrows pointing in different directions. A small tree had fallen across the path but there were no clear instructions as to what action to take. I ducked under the fallen tree and into the dark tunnel.

After all this humour and peril I was glad Bob had found a fish and chip shop. He caught up with me before Winscombe and shepherded me to the chip shop. I ended the walk at the old Winscombe station.
On the way back we made a small detour via Sidcot school and took a photo of the Quaker meeting house there. I try to visit places on or near the route that link to other projects and interests. In this case, Sidcot school was the school attended by Arnold Wynne who is named on the Roll of Honour for WW1 in Silcoates Chapel. He was a Quaker which explains his education at Sidcot, a Quaker school. He taught natural sciences at Silcoates before WW1. I had pieced together much of his life during the commemoration of the centenary of the war. He was Killed in Action on 9th April 1917 at the Battle of Arras and my visit to Sidcot was one of the final pieces of the story.

Another side visit was to the church at Rodney Stoke, near where we are staying. The church contains a window that was dedicated in 1920 giving thanks for the return of all those from the parish who served in WW1, including four women. This means it was one of the Thankful Villages, nine of which are in Somerset, who remembered with gratitude that they lost no one during that war in which so many were lost.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning

We will remember them

JAL 25.04.2019
24th Day of the End to End, Blackford to Winscombe via Weare.

Standing at Gold Corner, the waters rising, as the clouds sailed past and changed from silver to steel to leaden greys and the lines of ancient willow trees loomed up in the mist it was possible to believe in the myths our ancestors made about the wetlands. A sword could have been forged here in a grey place, and lost again in the grey mist. People could have come and gone in the misty world, silently. Cuckoos have called here for ages, and still do, as invisible today as in any other.

Probably in the distant past people would have used small boats for this kind of crossing, before the Levels were properly drained. The small hills, knowles and mumps rose up around me, reminding me of the safety of higher ground. This could have been Avalon, named for the apple trees that still bloom here.

Before I started walking, we stopped on the way at the Abbot’s Fish House at Meare, the oldest remaining monastic fish house in Britain. Around it the meadows would have seasonally been a pool and earlier still it was an area of Lake Villages.

My route today began on an old railway line from Bawdrip. It was dripping from trees and bridges and the sculptures on the heritage route wore the marks of the rain, both today’s and other days.
After Cossington the roads were often straight lines, alongside the Drains, crossing by small and large bridges. I remember Gold Corner from Hannah’s walk in 2012. Bob also walked this way in 2003 so now all three of us have taken this way across the Levels. At Gold Corner there is a large pumping station. The red line on the wall to the right of the main door, impossibly high over my head, marks the height of the highest recorded water level.

I took an old Drove route and then a footpath which of course made the going wetter. There are many degrees of wetness on a walk. The fact that my underwear was now wet meant this was a seriously wet day.
Bob helpfully appeared at the bridge where I rejoined the road with a seat in the dry car and a hot pasty to warm me up.

Refuelled, I set off for the second part of the day and soon met a pair of Lejoggers on bicycles. Sue and Ivan are both in their 70s and doing the ride for a cancer charity. It was uplifting to meet them, as it always is when you met others who are undertaking this particular challenge.

The Levels have played host to many historical groups. The Romans were said to have made salt here, presumably to finance their legions (and maybe there as one here).

The final part of the path was overgown with cow parsley. But as I was already completely soaked, what did a bit of wet foliage matter. The Sexey Arms car park was soon witness to the wet walker’s legs as I stripped off my trousers and wrapped myself in a blanket. It was only 20 minutes back to the van and some hot soup.

God grant us a quiet night and a drier day tomorrow.

JAL 24.04.2019
Day 23 of the End to End, Bawdrip to Blackford via Gold Corner.