A first!

Day 84 of the End to End in 2019 was the final section of the Three Lochs Way from Arrochar to Inveruglas, and a beautiful walk. After a ‘rest and be thankful’ day the previous day I was ready for some more uphill walking, which was just as well. I was the first member of our family to walk this section and I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Taking it at my own pace, which is slowly, I had plenty of time to enjoy the views and the wildlife.

After some uphill, the downhill section was signalled by the change in direction of the electricity power lines, also going downhill. Sloy power station was at the loch side at the bottom of the hill. It wasn’t a very busy walk, with most people on the Sloy side, where there were also some young cattle. Bob came up the path to meet me and we walked down to Inveruglas information centre.

In the Three Lochs Way guide book it reminds the walker not to forget to sign the achievement book. Eighty-four days walking seemed quite an achievement so I was happy to comply. Initially the book could not be found. I had an ice cream instead. Having unearthed the book from somewhere or another, it was bought out to me. I got excited about adding my name to those who had gone before me. Mine was the first name in the book.

I’m not usually first at much. I’m no athlete and whilst proud of my many achievements in various fields most are not in the sort of categories that get you widely noticed. As a woman I’ve done a few firsts: I was the first female chaplain at the school I served, for example. I’ve researched some other first, many women ministers, some of them recorded in the book Daughters of Dissent.

It felt good to have this achievement under my belt. I’d still got quite a long way to go after all, and any boost, whether uphill or down, was welcome. The countryside was still encouraging me and with the West Highland Way beckoning me I was now ready for the Highlands.

From the remembered bible, psalm 46: Be still and know that I am God

God of stillness and of chaos,
as alike to you as night and day,
I love the still places and the whirring energetic ones.
Seeking a balanced life in your company,
I give thanks for knowing both
and being with you.

JAL 08.07.2020 in Longdendale.

Decision making

Day 83 of the End to End in 2019 was my first on the Three Lochs Way, a path we’d not used before but for which we had a helpful guide book. We’d made the decision to use the Three Lochs Way back at the planning stage of the walk. Not only was it new to us and had a nice guide book but for this part of the route we could both walk together using Arrochar and Garelochhead stations. What could go wrong.

The station bit was fine as was the one stop on the train to Garelochhead station. We found the path up from near the station to the American road, as this part of the route was called. Indeed it was a good route. Sound under foot and surrounded by great views and lots of interesting plants and insects. Deer had been this way fairly often by their hoof prints in the mud.

There were several places worth remembering. First the Gurkha Bato was a track laid by a group of Gurkhas to make the route easier a few years ago. It included the first bridge. A notice told us that it was not in good condition and advised us to wade across further up stream. We were not inclined to follow this foot wetting advice so we took the decision to risk the bridge. It did not let us down.

Further on the second bridge was more study and dedicated to the memory of Warrant Officer Dave Markland who managed the development of the Gurkha Bato but who was KIA in Afghanistan in 2010. We ate our lunch by this second bridge.

Then there followed quite a lot of steamy uphill sections through the forestry workings. It was getting hot and taking us quite a long time. Where the road to Douglas Glenn crossed the route we made the decision to go down the road and along to Arrochar that way as this would be easier and quicker. We were rewarded with some lovely views and reflections of Loch Long and some ice cream at the Mansfield Studio and shop on the outskirts of Arrochar.

Not all decision making is rewarded with ice cream. I was reflecting on my walk yesterday, how we don’t know what all the knock on effects of our actions will necessarily be. We make a decision as a community and it may exclude one person. We may decide that price is worth paying: what choices have we got? May be we don’t know what else to do. Hurt is caused and a person leaves the community. Maybe we don’t know how to change that?

As someone who has left a community carrying a lot of hurt, I can say that such things leave very deep wounds and stay long in the memory of the excluded one. How they leave the excluders I don’t know. Does it leave them better equipped to make more loving and inclusive decisions in the future?  I live with hope.

From the remembered bible, Psalm 40:
God set my feet on a rock and gave me a firm place to stand, so I could sing God a new song.

I sing to God, my rock:
sometimes I sing a lament, about hurt, betrayal and injustice;
sometimes I sing with yearning for justice and a new kindom;
sometimes I sing with joy as peace breaks out and new relationships grow;
sometimes I am silent waiting for the song to begin.
I sing to God, my rock,
and God sings with me, a soulful harmony of understanding and acceptance,
and sometimes together we enjoy the deep silence of the hope filled universe.

JAL: 06.07.2020 in Longdendale.

Memorable weather

Day 82 of the End to End in 2019 had me crossing the Firth of Clyde via the Kilcreggan Ferry, which from 1st June 2020 is now operated by CalMac as this report confirms:

CalMac takeover of Kilcreggan ferry finally confirmed

I was soon walking up towards Garelochhead through the sort of weather that made Scottish holidays memorable in my childhood. Thin streams of cloud, like scarves, were strung out along the coast and hills, there was drizzle and showers and lets face it there were midges. Yet we still came back, although we avoided Ullapool for many years.

Today British people still talk weather. It’s the sort of subject that fills a conversation with my father in a neutral sort of way. Yet weather is anything but neutral. Caught on the adverse end of weather, as this week in Japan, then it’s memorable for all of the wrong reasons.

The problem is that weather is a sort of backdrop, atmospheric wall paper we can smudge into generalisations and thereby ignore the serious implications and most especially the way in which as human beings we affect it. As I walked up to Garelochhead a year ago the weather was not very different than it would be walking the same route anytime of the past few decades, or was it?

From the remembered bible, psalm 147
It’s God who covers the sky with clouds, supplying the earth with rain and making grass grow on the hills.

Cosmic One, as we play weather roulette,
make us mindful of our own weather related behaviour:
may we stop playing games with the future of others
and seriously respond to the climate challenges.

JAL: 05.07.2020 in Longdedale.

New routes

Day 81 of the End to End in 2019 included route 75, a sort of off shoot of route 7, which was a new route for me. I think I got a few photos muddled from today’s route with yesterday’s route, but hey-ho, never mind.

Meanwhile in 2020, it’s difficult to find new routes in Longdendale that I’ve not taken many times before, especially on a rainy day. I can see the hills shrouded with cloud. Some days it’s so low or think you can’t even see these small hills.

Of the psalms in my remembered bible the one about hills is my most frequently used. Last night, not sleeping very well, it was my go to psalm for a night vigil.

Here’s a version of it from the Mobile Chapel of St Scholastica, which is currently stationary in Longdendale:

I lift my eyes up to the hills
From where does my help come?
My help, it comes from God the One
Who heaven and earth has made.
Who heaven and earth has made, my Lord,
And always watch does keep,
From morn to eve and through the night
God neither rests nor sleeps.

It is also called the Traveller’s Psalm.

I try to walk everyday, even if only a little, to keep up some momentum and of course fitness. I’m itching to go beyond the current confines but only if safe to do so. I frequently look up routes I’ve not tried before to see if they might be a possible adventure. I’m currently helping on line to beta test the Old Way Guide, a pilgrim route in the South of England, which I’d like to walk at sometime if I can.

Most new routes are someone’s old route. We can take advice and courage from those who have gone that way before. Day 81 of LEJOG ended with a swim in the open air pool at Gourock where I happily floated about looking up at the clouds.

Song of the day: ‘For it’s from the old I travel to the new’ (Sydney Carter).

God of heaven and earth, of hills and clouds
those awesome witnesses to the way we go.
Be with us on routes old and new, that stepping out
We may be courageous: share in our discoveries.

 

JAL: 04.07.2020 in Longdendale.

Forty day (and forty nights)

Day 80 of the End to end in 2019 meant there were forty days (and forty nights) to go to John O’Groats. As far as remembering the bible goes, forty days (and forty nights) comes up now and again, nowhere better remembered than Jesus going into the Wilderness. Only I was not in the Wilderness nor going there. I was heading through Ayrshire, Renfrewshire and towards Inverclyde to cross the Firth of Clyde at Gurock. After that there would be the Three Lochs Way, the West Highland Way and the Great Glen Way, of which I’d already sampled some of the last two, though the first would be new to us. Once past Inverness I would be truly in the North but for now I’d forty days to go.

 

Looking back on it like this, one year later, it still seems amazing and impossible. And I suspect that’s how the Forty Days and Forty Nights things must have seemed to Jesus at the time. Indeed, if someone had told us a year ago, that we’d spend 100 days in lock down in the UK due to a global pandemic well we probably wouldn’t have believed them.

That 100 days is now behind us and the lock down has gradually been easing, such that some folks now go about more. That’s not true of everyone. I did visit my Dad today (we’re in a bubble with him) and he’s still not going out. He did tell me very gleefully that the Catholic Church Lunch Club that he usually takes part in on Fridays will now be delivering a meal to him from next Friday for 10 weeks. He’s looking forward to it. I told him ecumenism pays off in the end. We’re both grateful to those volunteers.

As I drove there and back through rain and low cloud, the world seemed small enough, with the swishing of my wipers keeping my vision clear and the radio keeping me company. At the top of Holme Moss I knew the mast was there even though I couldn’t see it.

The temptations are an odd set of encounters, but then again I’m sure many will feel more than tempted at the moment, and certainly over the weekend. It may not be stones into bread we’re hankering for, but a pie and a pint would suit some. We may not want to rule the whole world, but there are plenty who would like to get their business back on track. We may not want to see the whole world laid out before us but a summer holiday would be very welcome, I’m sure. Eventually, the Devil, whoever that is, stomps off and leaves Jesus to it. For us it will take some time for anxieties of all sorts to recede. But wilderness or not, we are not completely alone whilst the Spirit moves amongst us and continues to connect us however tenuously.

From the remembered bible: Jesus went into the desert and stayed there for forty days and forty nights. He was tempted there but angels helped him and wild animals kept him company. 

Jesus, as we wait for these lock down days to be over,
stay with us, so that whatever tempts us
to ignore the safety of others,
we may keep our resolve and enjoy your company
Remembering the angels and the signs of nature around us,
may we keep a tenuous hold at least, on the way ahead.
Whatever comes to pass, may we trust in you.

JAL: 03.07.2020. in Longdendale.

Return to route 7

Day 79 of the End to End in 2019 was on Sustrans Route 7 mostly along an disused and repurposed railway line. It was a longer way round than originally proposed but worth it to be traffic free and see all the wild life.

National Cycle Route 7 is a 601 mile section of the National Cycle Network connecting the Borders to Sutherland in the NE. I had walked on previous sections in the Arran area. The route on day 79 was also part of the Whithorn to Tain pilgrim route. Such off road routes as these are a delight for a walker like me who enjoys easy, flatish, traffic free walking through lovely countryside.

Other interesting sights along the route included some sculptures and odd bits of old railway paraphernalia. It’s always good to try to guess what they were or are.

There was a helpful community information centre in one village where I was able to use the toilet. Unfortunately many of these routes have few public toilets: one thing that needs improving.

Fast forward to 2020 and there’s no doubt we’ll not get the green light to new normal without more attention to traffic free routes and accessibility for people of all ages and abilities. A few pretty countryside walks are lovely but we need to establish everyday routes if folks are really going to swap cars for greener transport on the daily basis and build it into their lifestyle. This will mean quite a lot of investment, but surely will also create jobs and new industries.

Each time a revolution occurs that reshapes our nation it’s a lot of change. Others like the agricultural revolution, the industrial revolution and the whole of the post war period of the 20th century, change has been pretty constant. Walking along Sustrans Route 7 is a gentle reminder of how what was once crucial was then closed and later repurposed. Looking ahead maybe we can already see what will change and need new use. Rather than dig our heels in and insist on subsidising the old normal we need to see how more sustainable habits could come from obvious new normal developments.

Song for the day: Oh, you’ll never get to heaven on a Stockport bus…
(fill in your preferred ending).

From the remembered bible, Psalm 25
God, show me the right path; point out the route for me to follow.

Being human is habit forming.
As we fall into line to return to our old ways,
show us your new ways, Cosmic One.

JAL: 02.07.2020 in Longdendale.

A small place in Scotland

Day 76 of the End to End in 2019 had us arriving at Kilmarnock. There’s a joke I once saw in a Guardian obituary:

Name 3 fish beginning and ending in “K”:
Kwik Save Frozen Haddock
Killer Shark
Kilmarnock, a small place (sic) in Scotland.

Hence the title of today’s blog which is also influenced by the best fish and chip shop in these parts, which we have visited more than once. There was also a notice on the ring road that assured us that Kilmarnock was ‘The most improved place in Scotland’.

In general there was a  lot more Burns today. Everything he’s ever been associated with has a plaque on it somewhere, it seems. The Burns National Memorial is alongside a group of Almshouses and further up the road there’s one of the farms where he used to work.

In 2020 there’s a lot of debate about who should be remembered and how. Burns was only 37 when he died, but had managed to father 12 children with various women. He is said to have held egalitarian views and didn’t take up the job offer as a book keeper on a Jamaican sugar plantation , partly because he couldn’t afford the fare to Jamaica. He is called the National Bard of Scotland and his work covers a wide range of historical and social subjects, as well as promoting the Scots Language. So suitable for a statue then? Seems so, as there are plenty to be seen in different places he lived or visited or worked in.

I think the statue thing is problematic in many ways, not just because we uncover the ‘warts and all’ stories and worse of the people that have been celebrated by our forebears. History is told by the victors as we known. When the victors fall, which they so often do, then the new victors are bound to want to change the signs of oppression to reflect the new reality. Talk of levelling up becomes ridiculous with statues: we’d just have too many. In the past it was money and influence that bought statues. Who decides now? Maybe we should learn to see all these things as temporary: roads, airports, large civic buildings, can all be renamed any time. Or maybe we need to be more creative in the first place and not use the names of people who for whatever reasons are bound to come crashing down at some point. After all, every language has lots of other possibilities: the Rainbow Building, Larch Avenue, Blue Sky Thinking Airport.

Meanwhile, I’ll celebrate Kilmarnock, that small, improved place in Scotland, with the excellent fish and chips.

From the remembered bible: There’s a time for everything under heaven:
a time to name places and a time to rename them, a time to put up statues, and a time to take them down, a time to write poetry and a time to tear it up, a time to remember and a time to forget, a time to fight and a time for peace.

Timeless God, we know you’ve seen it all.
Enlarge our small minds to see your expanding vision of equality and justice.
May we seize this time and use it to make a difference in our naming and building, our writing and remembering.

JAL: 29.06.2020 in Longdendale

 

For Auld Lang Syne

Day 75 of the End to End in 2019 was through more Robert Burns country arriving at Mauchline, where there is a small Burns museum, by days end. One of my routes was along the River Ayr way, which was lovely: shady woodland, wild flowers and the odd viaduct.

Forward to 2020 and this mornings service on BBC Radio 4 was from members of the Iona Community. The theme was looking to the future hopefully. You can listen to it here:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m000kfwv

The words and music were helpful to me: inclusive, inviting , challenging. A helpful balance of encouragement which is not all about Auld Land Syne and what we miss from the past. One of the phrases that stuck with me was about how the Church needs to reassess its understanding of Jesus mission so that rather than continue to squander our resources on redundant buildings we make the building up of real community our priority. It’s an issue I’ve struggled with in many places during my time in ministry. It’s one of the reasons I found chaplaincy liberating: it wasn’t our building.

One of the things Bambi, or the Mobile Chapel of St Scholastica, represents to me, is the need for people of faith to be on the move. Snails take their homes with them, hermit crabs swap theirs from time to time; these are things we also need to be hopeful about.

(photo: not a hermit crab!)

Past times, Auld Lang Syne, in the song, have a peculiar hold over us, perhaps because we’ve already weathered them. The present seems wobbly enough and the future can seem down right terrifying. But I think of the hermit crab, swapping shells and shuffling on.

(photo: the Crab and Winkle Way is in Kent)

From the remembered bible: We will rise up with wings like eagles, run and not be weary, walk on and not faint.

An alternative translation, crustacean version: We will swap shells like hermit crabs, scuttle on and not be weary, walk sideways and not faint.

God of crab and eagle,
you encourage us to scuttle and scamper:
may we copy crustaceans in our bid to move the world
and create the peaceable kindom.

JAL: 28.06.2020 in Longdendale.

Old ways, new ways

Day 74 of the End to End in 2019 was another where we were able to use the rain to get to the start and from the finish meaning we could walk together all day. At one time the railways were a new way of travelling, replacing some of the older ways. In 2020 they have a mixed story: some are just about ticking over, some are more optimistic replacing old with new, even those the lock down and has severely curtailed the use of public transport.

There was plenty of the old to see on Day 74: old church at New Cumnock for example. Also old nostalgia for national poet Robert Burns: we would see plenty more of that over the next few days walking. But there were new signs too: an old coal mining area redeveloped as a nature reserve called  Knochshinnoch Lagoons.

At Cumnock we saw the house and statue of Keir Hardie, Labour Party politician. His name has recently been recycled too.

There’s still a lot of talk about new ways post COVID19 lock down. So far we’ve seen more evidence of the old ways: tons of litter left on beaches and heaps of fly tipping by selfish people. One possible new way might be more litter bins or a reinvention of Keep Britain Tidy, a slogan I remember from my youth. I even saw an online video of The Wombles yesterday, those helpful hairy creatures who used to sort recycling. Now we leave it to people in Turkey to sort out ours.

I was glad to hear quite a few Methodists had called on the Methodist Church to divest from fossil fuels, at their on line version of Methodist Conference. I fully support that (I’m not a Methodist) but I was less clear why the organ in a large Methodist Chapel had been lit up purple. Was it a liturgical thing?

So far the new thing about today is rain, after several very hot days. Last year I used a remembered version of Psalm 19 on Day 74, which is relevant whether in rain or sun:

From the remembered bible, Psalm 19

The sun rises at one end of the heavens
and makes its circuit to the other;
nothing is deprived of its warmth.

‘You cannot change the Laws of Physics’ (Remembered Star Trek)

No, but you can change the world if you manipulate the environment such that the Laws of Physics change the climate.

Creator God, who gave us humans intelligence, the skills to make decisions and an understanding of cause and effect,
make us mindful of our part in the immensity of creation,
and as old ways give way to new ways,
may we inhabit the earth carefully,
taking decisions that don’t further undermine the poor,
using our intelligence for mutual flourishing.

JAL: 27.06.2020 in Longdendale.

Revisiting history

Day 73 of the End to End in 2019 was one where Bob and I walked together all day, as it was possible to use the train for both the beginning and end of the walk. We were walking through a history of the black stuff: coal.

It was the stuff that made the industrial revolution and powered that empire we hear so much about these days, that destroyed the lungs and lives of so many, either directly or indirectly, and lead to the massive expectations in us all to have the lights on and the standard of living we want at the flick of a finger regardless of the lives of those who pay the price now.

Coal is made of plants that would have been green millions and millions of years ago. Today the old coal heaps around Kirkconnel are going back to green, sculpted for nature and wind power generation. Wild flowers spring up still.  We made our way across these hills towards New Cumnock.

It’s not new. It was formed as a separate parish when it was split off from Cumnock several centuries ago. If anywhere needs new normal in Britain today it’s places like this. There’s a miners memorial in every town and usually a small museum or community centre telling the stories of rise and decline, recalling the lives of ordinary people, the Board of the Co-op and the local school. There were a lot of places up for sale; the garage, an old industrial building and so on. I can’t imagine that lock down 2020 has been kind to places like this.

In 2019 I remembered Psalm 40: it’s not a bad choice in 20202 either.

I waited patiently for God, who turned to me, hearing my cry.
He lifted me out of the horrible pit of mud and mire and set my feet on rock, giving me a firm place to stand,
And putting a new song in my mouth, a hymn of praise to God.

I’m not known as a patient person, but they do get a lot of mentions in the bible. I doubt lock down has made anyone more patient, especially if recent seaside scenes are anything to go by.

Solid Rock One, Holy High Hill Maker,
you count time in millions of years not just a few weeks.
As we rush onto new normal,
may we give a thought to the old ways, and see them for what they were:
expedient, sometimes exploitative,
destructive of humans and the planet.
I want to praise you from firm ground,
but much of what is around me is barren.
May new life come to deserted places:
where for sale signs dominate may things open up again,
where old industry has stolen lives and land
may new ideas flourish and turn the landscape green.
Make us in to the human beings that will work for the good of others:
let us leave our bad habits for museums to remember,
as we weave the kindom together.

JAL: 26.06.2020 in Longdendale.