Becoming a habit

Day 107 of the End to End in 2019 also took the John O’Groats Trail that I’d first tried yesterday. It was a welcome change from the A9 and as this was day two, it was becoming a mini habit. Bob came with me on the first section to Kirkton level crossing, then I  continued on the north side of Loch Fleet to Balblair Woods. In 2003 Hannah and I had seen the rare single wintergreen here. That is a spring flower. In late summer this old pine woodland shelters creeping ladies tresses, a small member of the orchid family.

We engaged in another of our habits at Golspie when we opted for a fish and chip lunch followed by Brora ice cream. The JOGT trail continued along the coast past Dunrobin Castle. The castle has its own station on the railway line due to the insistence of the Duke of Sutherland.

On a sunny day there were a lot of butterflies, wonderful views and the walk ended at the Iron Age Broch at Carn Laith, which is cared for by Historic Scotland. There are quite a few remains of brochs in the area pointing to a history that predates the Romans in Britain. It was lovely to walk next to the sea.

In 2020 I am surprised how quickly small habits build up:  writing, sewing, cooking and walking in any order are my current habits. If it’s wet more of the indoor ones. If it’s dry gardening may be added to the outdoor ones.

As I write this I run through the LEJOG route in my mind, surprised what I remember. But then fish and chips and ice cream are memorable anywhere.

From the remembered bible, Psalm 77
Your path led through the sea, your way through the mighty waters, though your footprints were invisible.

Sometimes I see footprints as I walk, signs that others have used this route.
Sometimes I see stones piled one on top of another, signs our forebears lived here.
Most days I see plants and insects, signs that other creatures value these places and we should too.
Whatever habits I may build up, may I be mindful of their effects on the smallest and most vulnerable;
may this be my commitment every time I walk through the green.

JAL: 02,08.2020 in Longdendale.

Caution! Alternative Route

Day 106 of the End to End in 2019 started at Dornoch which has both a Cathedral and a Jail, and also a chocolate shop (which I forgot to mention yesterday). The first pause on the route was at Loch Fleet. I remember when we first saw Loch Fleet, which is a nature reserve, when Bob walked LEJOG in 2003. What an amazing sight. For our morning entertainment seals were balancing and bobbing; all was quiet.

The next part of the route was experimental. We’d heard of the John O’Groats Trail and I got the map in Tain, but I’d not tried it yet. It’s main aim was to provide an off road alternative to the A9 from Inverness to john O’Groats. we’d done our best to find our own version of this, which was why I’d gone across the Black Isle (which was totally lovely). But by Tain we were running out of options so I was glad to find the JOGT map. However, there were some warnings: it was not all necessarily signed, it was somewhat experimental, it might be affected by high tides and there were places without bridges. With this in mind, I was cautious. However, I saw the small logo on a fence post and decided to try it: better than the A9 I thought.

It turned out to be part of the route of the old Dornoch Light Railway which went from The Mound (my end point today) to Dornoch and which had lead to its rise as a tourist destination. It was rather overgrown. At one point I was swimming through chest high bracken. However, it was green and it did go where it said it would and I was soon on the way across the end of Loch Fleet and meeting Bob.

Most of my alternative route plans have so far worked out more or less (obviously so, or I’d not be still writing this). Even on the TPT I took a few alternatives, like a small footpath round a wood at the start of yesterday to avoid the road south of West Cowick. It’s good to try an off road route and my theory is you can always come back if it proves impassable. As it was, in 2019, I was less than 75 miles from John O’Groats and there were more sections of JOGT to try over the next few days.

From the remembered gospel: Jesus said ‘Go by the narrow route: it leads to life!’

Route finder, I love your directions.
These green routes amaze me and lift my spirits.
May I always tread gently on the earth.

JAL: 01.08.2020 Yorkshire Day, in Longdendale, Derbyshire.

Keep right on

Day 105 of the End to End in 2019 began at Tain airfield and the first place of interest was the town of Tain. It has been a place of pilgrimage for several centuries and the 1000 mile mark came up in the town. It was also notable for a walk along the A9 which is the main road to John O’Groats, some 80 or so miles away at that point.

I am still walking in 2020 this time on the TPT. It was day 5 in Yorkshire, supposedly going eastwards but in fact mostly going westwards due to the meanderings of the trail on its way to Selby. We stopped short of there at Temple Hirst, saving the rest for another time, and made our way back to Longdendale.

Views over the fields of wheat and barley are dominated by the huge power stations of the area: Drax, Eggborough and Ferrybridge. Other landscapes nearer home are lined with wind turbines. Nearer Hatfield where we were staying stumps of old windmills are signs of previous ways of making things work.

A walk of 40 miles in 5 days, the last of which was very hot, felt very satisfactory. It reminded me pleasantly of the good feelings long distance walking can bring. I look forward to some more, albeit a few weeks from now.

From the remembered bible: The wind blows where it will. 

The blowing wind, useful or dustructive, reminds us of power, that can be used or abused.
As the turbines turn, keeping the lights on and the ventilators pumping, remind us to play our part by the decisions we make, both large and small, growing communities.

JAL 31.07.2020 walking on TPT to Temple Hirst, and then back in Longdendale.

 

 

 

All is quiet

Day 104 of the End to End in 2019 begun with a calm and quiet crossing on the Nigg Ferry. I was the only passenger. I continued onto Nigg Church which houses the Nigg Stone,  a Pictish Cross Slab which depicts the earliest known illustration of the eucharist in Britain. It was a quiet day’s walk to Tain airfield (disused).

Today in 2020 it’s day 4 of our TPT eastwards walk, this time starting from Braithwaite. The first three miles were straight along the New Junction Canal. There were some quiet reflections, lovely plants including wild watercress and some quiet black headed gulls.

Meanwhile Bob was finding it difficult to park at our first proposed point due to an angling competition. He went onto the second, but all this meant I actually walked further than him today. We met at Topham Ferry Lane (ferry no longer available) and made our way through a series of quiet lanes and paths.

We both remarked how quiet the walk was with very little traffic or other extraneous sounds. The flat countryside, mostly used for cereal growing, was doing what it does best: just letting time pass quietly.

From the remembered bible: Be still and know I am God.

As the Swans glide and the plants grow,
As the cereal crops push their way skywards,
As the clouds shuffle across the blue,
So I am glad for a still calm day and the quiet around me.

JAL 30.07.2020 TPT Eastwards, Braithwaite to Shearburn Plantation.

 

Two seats

Day 103 of the End to End in 2019 was a wonderful and most memorable walk across the Black Isle. Last year was a butterfly summer such that warm winds from the south had blown thousands of Painted Lady butterflies to the area. I well remember walking round a corner into a huge cloud of them, more than I could count.

This year, I’ve not yet seen a Painted Lady, but winds have mostly been coming from the west. However, I have seen a lot of other butterflies. Today on our TPT Eastwards trek there were quite a lot. With regularly spaced buddleia along the small Yorkshire lanes there were plenty of Peacock and Red Admiral. But there were even more Large White and a small orange butterfly called Gatekeeper.

The best section of the walk was through Owston wood, a lovely shaded green route. Lunch was at Trumfleet, a village with a very large name stone. But more importantly it had two seats, one in a bus shelter for bad weather. The second, opposite it, in the sun was the one we choose. Trumfleet was a, small village but it had two seats!

It also had a disused railway route unfortunately not used by the TPT. We therefore walked round to Braithwaite by road and finished in the car park by the New Junction Canal.

From the remembered bible, psalm 1. You will be happy is you do not ‘sit in the seat of scoffers’ but stick to God’s ways.

For the comfortable seat,
The lunch to scoff with a friend,
And the way ahead on a sunny day,
Thanks be to God.

JAL 29.07.2020 TPT east, Bentley to Braithwaite.

 

Flowering lane, wooded trail

Day 102 of the End to End in 2019 was across the Black Isle, a place of flowery lanes and wooded paths.  Moving on to 2020 my second day on the TPT eastwards was also along flowery and wooded paths.

One of the things I enjoy most about long distance walking is the opportunity to enjoy the natural world, especially flowering plants and the insects.

At this time of year many of the plants are showing pink or yellow flowers. On sunny days plenty of butterflies are about.  Today was windy but not wet. The TPT is an excellent route, a path with a good even surface and lovely views of the River Don.

The Boat Inn had closed sometime since Bob walked past in 2013. In its place was a small snack van selling tasty lemon muffins. Leaving the River Don, the last section of the route to Bentley was on a disused railway path. We arrived at Bentley Park in good time. The whole route had taken about the same amount of time as yesterday’s.

From the remembered gospel: Jesus said ‘Look at the Lilies of the field’.
It’s lovely to walk a route lined with flowers, or a path shaded by trees. They make the way pleasant.
May we make the way pleasant for others, offering courtesy and support to fellow travellers, sharing the route, treading gently.

JAL 28.07.2020 Denaby Ings to Bentley via TPT.

The cafe at the end of the universe

There’s really only one subject for Day 99 of the End to End in 2019 and that’s the cafe at the end of the universe. After a lovely, but hot, walk along the Great Glen Way, through some forested bits strewn with large orange fungi called Birch Boletos, I eventually came to it.

It had been signposted from some distance away with cheery home made signs announcing the various possible consumable items from the menu. As it got hotter and the cafe got nearer I became more determined to reach it. Eventually I came to the last sign post which indicated a turn off the main path into the woodland. Now anyone who has done any kind of walk knows to beware of signs  like this, after all it could be miles away.

I risked it. I met a couple coming back towards me and asked about the cafe; was it really this way and was it far? They gave the necessary assurances and I continued to an archway,  a rather odd collection of hand made furniture and a lot of chickens. I had arrived at the cafe at the end of the universe.

I sank down on a bench and was soon served by the proprietor: a cold drink and cake were ordered. When they arrived my photo was taken for the Facebook archive and I tucked into the feast. Meanwhile, Bob was coming back in the other direction and was soon enjoying his own cool drink along side me. He later said, he wasn’t sure he was ever going to persuade me to leave.

And that’s the thing about the cafe at the end of the universe, which was actually in their back garden: no one wants to leave, ever.

From the remembered gospel: Jesus said, ‘I’m coming to your house for tea’.
Of all the references to sharing food in the gospel, this one is the most homely.

Welcoming One, how wonderful it is to share food together in any part of the universe.
As the lock down eases, we look forward to the sharing days and the celebrating ways,
remembering, retelling and rejoicing, in the kindom cafe at the end of the universe.

JAL: 25.07.2020 In Longdendale (and sadly not in Canterbury as originally planned).

Gates

Day 98 of the End to End in 2019 continued on the Great Glen Way from Bunloit Pottery to Drumnadrochit. This was the third time we’d used this part of the route in that monster village. Near the beginning there was a lovely honesty stall selling locally printed t-shirts and a bit further on a small honesty shed selling cakes. I love this system and always partake fairly.

There were also a few gates, including one I remembered from Bob’s 2003 walk when Hannah, then aged 9, was walking with him.

There are lots of gates on the LEJOG: some you go through, some you don’t. Some you should go through and you don’t. Some you shouldn’t go through and you do.

Gates come in all shapes and sizes and all materials: wood and metal gates are the most common. Some have latches and catches, some you have to climb over. But, on the whole LEJOG, not one of them had a gate keeper, if you discount the odd patch of nettles or thistles to put you off. Gate keeping is a thing some people do in institutions. They feel obliged to check on those asking admittance, see their up to scratch or likely to behave properly. A sort of semi-benign bouncer system that easily goes off the rails.

Whilst gates may have had the original aim of keeping things in, I think of them as ways through: part of a route to somewhere else. I’m not necessarily stopping long, just passing through. Note that Jesus is not the gatekeeper, but the actual gate. In my remembered bible, the Jesus-gate doesn’t seem to need a gate keeper.

The walking day, after fish and chips in Drumnadrochit, ended 14 miles from Inverness by road. But the route I was taking, there were bound to be more gates.

From the remembered gospel: Jesus said ‘I am the gate…’

In his Rule, St Benedict didn’t have much time for those who ‘pen themselves into their own sheepfold’ or who, just passing through, ‘never settle down’. But then he was trying to encourage the creation of community and he saw these two types of seekers as disruptive. They seemed to do whatever they wanted, either in their own small huddles or by just drifting about. Yet both of these types are common in our time, just as they must have been in his. So, dismiss them or embrace them, that’s the question? I certainly have tendencies of both types myself. If Jesus is the gate, then a real kindom community has nothing to fear from either of these sorts of seekers.

May we kindom seekers, go in by the gate,
welcome others and in openness receive from them.

JAL: 24.07.2020 in Longdendale.

Cake!

Day 97 of the End to End in 2019 continued along the Great Glen Way from Invermoriston beginning with quite a steep uphill section. You might be forgiven for thinking that the Great Glen Way had become a series of rest days after yesterdays unscheduled rest stop for poor weather. Truth was the Great Glen Way was quite demanding, especially coming as it did after the Three Lochs Way and the West Highland Way. There’s no doubt I was tired, so rest days had helped. After all I was not aiming for a record breaking LEJOG.

Unlike Ann Sayer, member of the Long Distance Walkers Association, who’s obituary I read yesterday. She still holds the record for the fastest Land’s End to John O’Groats walk by a woman. Completed in 1980 it took her 13 days, 17 hours and 42 minutes. She walked 830 miles (a lot by road) and averaged nearly 60 miles a day (which is over 3 times what Bob and Hannah each did on their LEJOGs and over 6 times my average). She died in April 2020 aged 83.  I salute her and anyone who walks the End to End.

I’m amazed how much of it I can still remember, even quite small details. Last night when I wasn’t sleeping, I ran my memory fast forward over the route from the Great Glen to the end. It was wonderful. On day 97 Bob, who had come with me on the first morning section, and I arrived at the Stone Cave. This is one of those places where all three of us have visited, and it definitely appeals to the hermit in me, although it is rather small.

Much more of course, do I remember the cake.  Day 97 ended at the Bunloit Pottery which serves fantastic cake (although I seem to have failed to photograph it which is surprising). It’s OK to pray for cake, especially on an End to End.

From the remembered gospel: Jesus said: ‘When you pray do it like this…’

High Holy One of Heaven, named as Father by your Son,
May the uniting of earth with heaven begin now and never end,
as we weave together your kindom.
May the bread we receive today be justly gathered and shared:
forgive us when we fail at this,
as we forgive those who fail us.
May we not be tempted to water down this commitment,
else we fall into less wholesome ways.

JAL: 23.07.2020 in Longdendale.

Knowing our limits

Day 95 of the End to End in 2019 continued along the Great Glen Way. The weather was better than the day before, the breakfast and sandwiches excellent. The route was lovely: a disused railway line for some of the way which was fairly easy going.

Some folks express surprise when I say I’ve walked LEJOG. After all, carrying several surplus stones as I do, I don’t look the epitome of fitness. Maybe they imagine it’s some kind of ultra event for the super fit. I’d say, that depends on how you do it. But this section was no more difficult that a walk on the Longdendale Trail which also includes a disused railway line.

Bridge of Oich is a place of three bridges, one of which, in the care of Historic Scotland, has a notice that says ‘Only 50 people allowed on the bridge at one time’. Perhaps it does get busy here and days of 50 people piling on the bridge in some sort of record attempt may have sometimes occurred. But not today. There were few people about and we were 48 short of the limit. I wonder if there was ever a party on the Bridge of Oich?

Meanwhile in 2020 in Longdendale I’m trying to get back up to walking fitness after my unscheduled stay in hospital now over a week ago. It’s easy to do the odd mile or two from our front, or back, door, and it’s quite easy to do anything up to 9 or 10 miles actually, but I’m a bit out of practice. So I set off for a morning walk , slowly. With lots of butterflies in the valley at the moment, that was fine as I could note them as I went along. It’s another 6 days before I’m allowed back into general circulation.

This year has been a year of numbers: those who have caught the virus, those who have died, days in quarantine, days in ICU, metres of social distance, number of people in your bubble or your shop. Our world has certainly got smaller and we are in physical contact with far fewer people on a regular basis. Tomorrow is our 29th Wedding Anniversary: I am thankful.

From last year’s blog,the remembered bible from Psalm 139
You see me, whether I am working or resting and you know everything I do.
Even before I speak, you already know what I will say.

You have me in your eye,
you hold me by the hand,
you guide me through these steps,
you nurture me in body and mind:
You know my limits,
the way my human frailty works.
Keep me mindful, caring and supportive,
that others I meet may reach theirs
and together we can thrive.
JAL: 19.07.2020 in Longdendale.