Month: July 2019

Day 86 of the End to End began at Beinglas on the West Highland Way. With a weather forecast of rain I anticipated more of the wet stuff. In the end there was no rain but wet feet from fording lots of streams, undoubtedly the product of the recent wet weather.
Hannah accompanied me on the first part of the route for a short jog (her not me). She then went to Crainlarich with Bob.
The WHW goes through Glen Falloch at this point and there were lovely views of the river in spate, especially the Falls.
The marshy meadows along the Way were beautiful with wild flowers: bog asphodel, small orchids and sundew amongst them.
Bob and Hannah meet me for a lunch stop after quite a long and tiring morning. Reaching it required the fording of a stream and crossing a stile: two challenges in one. It wasn’t the only stream I had to cross. The rain meant that quite a lot of the downhill sections of the path had become streams.
A honesty box for drinks and chocolate was a welcome distraction along the path before the Crainlarich junction. After that the path narrowed and was wet to the end by the A82 at Ewich. It was beautifully green through the woodland stretches, from top to bottom and quite a few golden ringed dragonflies were about.
I crossed under the railway Viaduct and met Hannah and Bob by the road junction. Inspite of low cloud on the hills it hadn’t rained on me today.
We called into the Artisnal Cafe in an old church just up the road for some cake before our journey back to Tyndrum.

From Luke’s Gospel

Jesus said to Zaccheus I’m coming to your house for tea!

A church that serves tea and cake is following in a Jesus tradition, although I’ve yet to see one called Chez Zaccheus.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 10.07.2019
Day 86 of the End to End, Beinglas to Ewich on the West Highland Way.

Day 85 of the End to End sees me join the West Highland Way at Inversnaid. It’s going to be a wet one, but then this part of the West of Scotland does have a high annual rain fall, lots of lochs to fill and temperate rain forest to water.
It’s not my first trek on this part of the WHW. The year after Bob’s End to End we all did some small sections from Balmaha including most of this bit.
This morning I left Tarbert on the Waterbus at 10am for Inversnaid. The other folks on board were mostly from a coach party and the tour guide entertained us as we crossed the Loch with stories of Rob Roy.
At Inversnaid hotel I decided to have some hot chocolate before setting off, which turned out to be a good plan. I knew it was a challenging route but with the rain as well it was twice as demanding. But it was also very beautiful with low clouds decorating the hills and frogs hopping in the puddles at my feet.
Bob set off from Beinglas and we met at the Doune bothy for a snack. It was a meeting point for all nations as many walkers arrived there for a rest and some shelter from the weather. Whilst we sat there we got a surprise phone call from Hannah who was in the process of changing trains and stations at Glasgow.
It was a further two rather wet hours down the WHW to Beinglas where we got some lovely soup in the bar to warm us up.
At Tyndrum our new accommodation is a Posh Pod and very comfy and dry it is too.

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.
JAL 09.07.2019
Day 85 of the End to End, Inversnaid to Beinglas on the WHW
(note that reduced signal may limit blog content on WHW)

Day 84 of the End to End followed stage 4 of the Three Lochs Way from Arrochar to Inveruglas. It was not a long walk being about 6 miles and it was a lovely day.
Bob came with me for the first mile through Arrochar village to the start of the path at the head of Loch Long. The path is shared with the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way which comes in from the west.

It winds its way up through woodland and meadows full of flowers and insects to a small rocky pass. Although steep at times there were plenty of places to rest, great views and lots to see. I knew I’d reached the top when the power lines, which follow the same route started to dip downwards.

The downhill path went through more woodland and came out to a small bridge over Inveruglas water. The valley is surrounded by spectacular peaks. It had taken me just under two hours to do the four miles or so.

I met Bob on the hydro road and there was an easy route down to the main road, past the Sloy Power Station, a hydroelectric scheme. There’s a footpath along the main road to the Inveruglas visitors centre, where I signed the book of achievement. It took them a while to find it and mine was the first name in the book.

There were good views over Loch Lomond and the nearby Inveruglas island. A new structure that has won an architectural prize provides an elevated view point. We drove back to Tarbert for some lentil soup.

From Psalm 46

Be still and know that I am God

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end
JAL 08.07.2019
Day 84 of the End to End, Arrochar to Inveruglas

As we have two days in hand on the End to End route, we decided to have a rest day today. It was a bright day and the hills and lochs of this part of Argyll are beautiful at anytime of the year, so it was ideal territory for a break from walking.
Back in 2000, Bob cycled from Sheffield to Iona (Gwen and I arranged a pilgrimage to Iona for people from Shiregreen URC) and on that journey he cycled up the Rest and be Thankful Pass. So that was our first spectacular stop. It was named by the soldiers who made the Military Road here in the 18th century.

We then drove onto Inveraray, a small town on Loch Fyne. It was a lovely morning for an ice cream by the lochside after a walk round the town. There is a 15th century stone cross near the Pier and the ship Vital Spark rests by the Pier. Bob will probably write more about that as he remembered the connection to a TV show.

We then drove a little further towards Loch Awe to Portsonachan, which is a very small place, for a picnic lunch. On the way we found a cake shop in a phone box, which was excellent timing.

It had been a restful adventure.

From Psalm 3

I call out to God, who answers me from the holy mountain.
I lie down and sleep and I wake up again, because God keeps me going.

Rest is essential.
We are thankful for it.

God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 07.07.2019
A rest day on the End to End between Arrochar, Inveraray and Portsonachan via the Rest and be Thankful Pass.

Day 83 of the End to End from Garelochhead to Arrochar was a tough day. The weather was much brighter than yesterday so we could see some of the views we couldn’t see yesterday.
So that we could both walk together we took the car to Arrochar station and the train down to Garelochhead. Our plan was to walk back on the Three Lochs Way.

At Arrochar station a local resident explained that the path between the station and the village was closed due to timber being moved. This meant we’d need to take a different, shorter route into the village, but it wasn’t on our map.

Anyway we got started on the 10.06 to Garelochhead. It’s one stop and at the station we were only a short hop from the starting point, the place where the Three Lochs Way Sustrans link path takes off towards the American Road part of the route (as explained in the Three Lochs Way Guide Book).
It was quite steep and there were some squelchy bits. However we were soon on the American Road, as the tarred part of the Three Lochs Way is called. It is also an MOD training area, but the only people training today were us!
There was a lot to see: great views and varied flora and fauna, butterflies, orchids and much more.

 

The next section is called the Gurkha Bato and was built by Gurkha engineers in 2010. 

There followed two footbridges. The first was a bit dodgy so we just held our breath on that one. The second is called the Dave Markland bridge in memory of Warrant Officer Dave Markland who managed the development of the Gurkha Bato but who was KIA in Afghanistan in 2010. We ate our lunch by the second bridge.

 The Dave Markland bridge (below)

The track from the bridge was steeply uphill to the next section of the forest track. It was hot and a struggle. The route was taking us a long time and a lot of energy. When we got to the road to Douglas Glen we reassessed the situation and decided to descend to the Loch side road and walk into Arrochar that way. We’d driven on the road yesterday so we had an idea what it was like. It was a good decision. We made better time. Two miles on this section were sponsored: mile 800 by Anne and mile 802 by Renee. Thanks very much for the sponsorship. It was less physically demanding and there were lovely views of Loch Long.

Just before Arrochar, Mansefield Studio was an inviting place for ice cream and a cool drink. Bob then set off to pick up the car from the station and I went back to the hotel.
My overall total is now over 800 miles since Land’s End.

From Psalm 40

God set my feet on a rock and gave me a firm place to stand, so I could sing God a new song.

I often make up songs when I am walking!

God grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 06.07.2019
Day 83 of the End to End, Garelochhead to Arrochar.

Day 82 of the End to End took me back to the Scotland I remember from holidays in my childhood. We would holiday in Scotland during the summer and I still have a journal I kept when I was 9 years old (it’s the oldest journal I still have). Grey sky, rain in varying amounts, views obscured by clouds and then, if the weather cleared, a paddle at the water’s edge somewhere at the end of the day.

 Today I took the train from Carsdyke to Gourock while Bob took the car across the Clyde via the Erskine bridge. I got to take the Kilcreggan ferry, a small pedestrian ferry across to the Roseneath Peninsula.
There were not many passengers but there were Eider Ducks on the water.

At Kilcreggan I called in at the post office and also got a sausage roll as a snack before the serious walking. I walked along the coast road and admired a well known rock on the beach that has become a local landmark.

Bob parked at Garelochhead and walked back towards me. Meanwhile I had various adventures: a lot of caterpillars on nettles (maybe Peacock butterfly again), a cow in the middle of the road and two butterfly orchids on the roadside.

We met on the road across the Peninsula on a very steep hill. We stopped for lunch at the Peaton Hill community nature reserve where it was good to have a sit down.

The second half of the days walk was along the Gareloch. The road was busier and there were views of the Faslane Base. The rain got a bit heavier and after the welcome shore path across the top of Gareloch, we stopped at the Perch Cafe for some afternoon tea including some very tasty cakes.

It was then only a short walk to Station Road where today’s walk ended. There was a drive to the Arrochar hotel which is beside Loch Long where we are staying. The rain continued to fall and the low cloud obscured the Loch views, more like a holiday in my childhood.

From Psalm 147

God covers the sky with clouds supplying the earth with rain and making grass grow on the hills.

The rain is a vital part of a cycle that makes the hills green and fills the lochs with water. The land is the land because of the rain. 
God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end. 

JAL 05.07.2019

Day 82 of the End to End,  Gourock to Garelochhead via Kilcreggan ferry.

9 

Day 81 of the End to End was a lovely walk from Boglestone to Gourock. Bob got me onto route 75 behind the shops at Boglestone roundabout. It provided an interesting set of contrasts: the derelict factory alongside the extensive wildflower meadows with views over the Clyde thrown in.

The flowers did, of course include orchids. Mostly early spotted orchids but one amazing butterfly orchid, the first I’ve ever seen.

 Early spotted (above) and Butterfly (below)

The path continued via some green shady sections and crossed Devol burn. It wasn’t very busy and Bob soon met me not far from where we had a meal last night, having left the car back at our accommodation.
We came down towards the coast where route 75 and the Clyde Coastal path combine. This took us alongside many historical features of the area like the Custom’s House. There was also a large cruise ship docked at Clyde Port.
For lunch we popped into Cafe Mor, formerly a church with hymn board and font still evident.

The soup option was Scotch Broth. It was at this point that I had to revisit my opinion of pearl barley, something I’d pretty much loathed since childhood. The soup was very good, as was the Strawberry Tart to follow.
We continued around the Clyde Coastal path, which went around the Esplanade, a 19th century walkway along the riverside. The houses facing the river here have been home to many historical characters from Greenock’s past and still look very comfortable.

We approached Gourock via the Pier that I will use tomorrow. Having checked that out we had a brief walk around Gourock Pierhead. This included a photograph outside the swimming pool I went to yesterday and an ice cream, before getting the train back to Carsdyke.

From Genesis 25

Then Jacob gave him some bread and some of the soup. Esau ate and drank and then got up and left.

Two brothers and a bowl of soup! The stuff of soap operas: scenes like this pepper the Bible. Sibling rivalry is seen the world over and Jacob and Esau are little different from many other examples, from ancient to contemporary.

God, help us to put old rivalries aside and build mature relationships instead of battling over soup.

Grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 04.07.2019
Day 81 of the End to End, Boglestone to Gourock.

Day 80 of the End to End would, when completed, mark two thirds of the days used. It would leave us with 40 days (and possibly 40 nights) to get to John O’Groats.
It began at Kilbarchan. The village has a history of weaving and radical politics. The Weaver’s Cottages in the centre of the village were unfortunately not open today.

I joined the disused railway path that is now National Cycle Route 75 at Bridge of Weir. The folks running the community centre and post office were very welcoming. The path was gentle walking much like yesterday, through fields of mixed farming. I passed the side path to Quarriers, the village built in the 19th century as the National Orphans Homes for Scotland. There were plenty of wild flowers, including common toadflax. It is know in different places by many different local names including ‘butter and eggs’ and ‘bread and butter’.

The next village was Kilmacolm. Bob met me and we had a picnic on a bench. In some places interesting sculptures have been erected often made from old recycled stuff.

I was soon walking down to the Boglestone Activity Centre, where the days walk ended.
However, it wasn’t the end of the days activity. I elected to visit the Gourock open air swimming pool, as I’d seen it mentioned and wanted to try it. Heated to 29 degrees it was easily warmer in the pool than out! It wasn’t very busy and I had a pleasant time floating in the warm salty water watching the changing cloudscape.
Later, Bob and I walked to an Indian restaurant in Greenock, looking at the paths for tomorrow’s walk when we planned to use the Clyde Coastal path.

From Matthew 6

And why get anxious about what you wear? See how the wildflowers grow, without weaving or spinning.
But not even King Solomon in all his splendor was dressed as well as one of these plants.

Most of us no longer make our clothing from scratch. It’s usually readily available, cheap enough and can be discarded just as quickly. We behave more like King Solomon, acting without thought for the origins of what we wear or who made it. Anxious only about what we look like.
But we will never rival the simple glory of wild flowers, everyone of them magnificent.

God release us from our anxieties.
Grant us a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 03.07.2019
Day 80 of the End to End from Kilbarchan to Boglestone Activity Centre.

Day 79 of the End to End began at Beith and took a two and a half mile extra loop to join Sustrans route 7 near Kilbirnie. I managed the distance in 45 minutes, and my first three miles in 55 minutes, which must be some of my fastest times of the whole LEJOG so far.

It’s not the first time I’ve used Route 7, part of the National Cycle Network. After crossing the border I used Route 7 in the Arran area in Dumfries and Galloway. It’s a route that goes right across Scotland. At this point it’s following a old railway route, the former Dalry to North Johnstone line. The line was closed to passengers in 1966 and the cycle path opened in 1988. It also forms part of the Whithorn Way, the Pilgrim route from Glasgow to the Isle of Whithorn.
Once I’d got onto it, I settled down to a more sensible pace as I had at least another 7 miles to go for the day. Also because there were a great number of early common spotted orchids in the meadows alongside the first part of the trail that I wanted to photograph.

It was a beautiful route and I’m so glad we decided to use it. As well as the meadows and strips of woodland, there were also many small pools alongside the track creating many different habitats. Bob came to meet me from Lochwinnoch car park. When we got there we had a picnic by the lochside and picked up an ice cream at the visitors centre.

The second half of the day was similar with the tree lined route replete with lovely flowers and other interesting sights, including the occasional sculpture and some wild strawberries.

There was the Collegiate Church of Castle Semple, which is now a ruin, and other parts of the old estate. There was also an odd wooden structure. Any ideas what it might be?

We arrived at Kilbarchan in good time, coming off route 7 at the former station. It hadn’t been too hot, no rain and easy walking. During the course of the day I passed the 1000 miles mark for walking so far this year.

From Psalm 25

God, show me the right path; point out the route for me to follow.

It’s good that this path is still being used as a sustainable traffic free route.
On the walk I’ve used many old routes and the country is criss-crossed with paths used by our forbears.
We walk in the footsteps of those who have gone ahead of us.

Christ before me, Christ above me,
Christ beside me, Christ behind me,
Christ in mouth of all who love me.
God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 02.07.2019
Day 79 of the End to End, Beith to Kilbarchan.

Day 78 of the End to End was a windy day in Ayrshire. By the end of the day I’d been in East, South and North Ayrshire and seen West Ayrshire which is basically the sea.
I started at Stewarton Station and the first part of the morning was along a fairly busy road. I’ve got more used to these over the last week or so. I put my head down and walk. Turning off onto a quieter side road after 3 miles or so was very welcome. The wind was strong and the gulls and corvids were noisily air surfing, something for which I admire them. But even so, it seemed unseasonal to have to wear my ear warmer on the 1st July.
It did,  however offer plenty of opportunities to plan great schemes, like my mobile ice cream delivery service. Imagine, a cyclist with a portable freezer powered by wind or solar or even pedal power,  a range of flavours from a local source, following a Lejogger on her route. Readily available ice-cream supplies would be very welcome in those parts of the country where the ice cream sellers are not so common. I’d call it ‘Deliverice’!
I met Bob for lunch at Burnhouse where the sign on the main road said it was 17 miles to Glasgow. However, we’re going the long way round.

The second part of the day took me past an odd collection of warehouses which seemed to store whisky. In this area, small orchids dotted the verges.

It was downhill to Beith at days end. We then did a few bits of reconnaissance for tomorrow when I hope to join a Sustrans route on a disused railway path.
We then took the coast road via Largs to eventually get to Greenock. We stopped at Largs for a blast of sea air and some ice cream.

Our accommodation in the Premier Inn at Greenock has a great view across the Clyde, to where we hope to be by the end of the week.

From Psalm 103

Human life is like grass, flourishing like a wildflower; but the wind blows over it and it is gone and forgotten.

Today the wind was blowing all the grass and wildflowers in every direction. Only a few Butterflies risked the weather: some painted ladies that have come up on the warm southerly wind earlier in the week and a couple of red admirals.

Loking out over the River Clyde as some small showers blow in, God grant a quiet night and a peaceful end.

JAL 01.07.2019
Day 78 of the End to End, Stewarton to Beith.